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Government Misplacement 
NORMAN TEBBIT SAID ABUSE 'MAY WELL HAVE BEEN' COVERED UP
Following the loss of a dossier detailing allegations of a 1980s Westminster paedophile ring

Norman Tebbit (Photo via)

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Former Conservative Party chairman Norman Tebbit has said there "may well have been" a cover-up of child sex abuse in Westminster during the 1980s. 

Following the news that the Home Office could not locate a dossier of 114 files potentially relevant to an alleged political paedophile ring, Lord Tebbit told the Andrew Marr Show that the culture at the time was to protect "the establishment" instead of delving "too far" into such claims.

The dossier in question was given to the then-home secretary by Tory MP Geoffrey Dickens, who told his family that the information contained within would "blow the lid off" the lives of powerful child abusers, including eight well-known figures. Scotland Yard say they have no record of the allegations.

Calls for an overarching public inquiry into allegations of child abuse from that era have been rejected by the government; instead, a new review will look into a Home Office review last year of any information it received in the 1980s and 1990s about organised child sex abuse.
 

Israel and Palestine
SUSPECTS WERE HELD OVER THE MURDER OF MOHAMMAD ABU KHDAIR
The 16-year-old Palestinian's death sparked days of violent protests

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According to Israeli authorities, a number of "Jewish suspects" have been arrested over the death of Palestinian teenager Mohammad Abu Khdair.

Israeli police said that the 16-year-old was killed "because of his nationality", in an attack that caused days of violent protests.

Khdair's family believe his murder was a revenge attack for the killing of three Israeli students, whose bodies were found two days before he was reportedly burned to death.

Police didn't comment on any possible motive for the killing, but Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu said Israel would respond to all four murders "with a firm hand".

Hundreds of Palestinians clashed with Israeli police before and after Khdair's funeral on Friday, which led to controversy after mobile phone footage emerged of officers beating Khdair's 15-year-old cousin Tariq Khdair.
 

US Snooping
GERMANY ARE REALLY PISSED OFF WITH WASHINGTON
They're demanding an explanation after the arrest of a suspected double agent

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Germany have demanded answers from Washington following the arrest of a foreign intelligence agency employee who admitted passing documents to a US contact.

The papers handed over by the suspected double agent reportedly included information about a parliamentary committee investigating allegations that the US carried out major surveillance in Germany, including the monitoring of Angela Merkel's phone.

"I expect everyone to cooperate promptly to clear up these allegations – with quick and clear comments from the United States as well," said Minister of the Interior Thomas de Maizière.

The news risks putting a further strain on German-American relations following last year's hacking allegations, which German head of state Joachim Gauck called a "vexing episode".
 

More Meltdowns
KANYE COMPLETELY LOST IT AGAIN
A 20-minute rant at Wireless included a comparison between being papped and rape

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Kanye's fucked it again.

After being brought in as a last minute replacement for Drake at the Wireless festival, he managed to piss off seemingly the entire audience by saying much more stupid shit than normal.

Stopping his performance to talk about himself for 20 minutes, Yeezy – often talking about himself in the third person – called himself both "shy" and "arrogant", before comparing paparazzi attention to rape.

“I want to bring my family to the movies without 30 motherfuckers following me," he said. "Everybody here – they like sex, right? Sex is great when you and your partner are like, ‘Hey, this is what we both want to do.' But if one of those people don't want to do that, what is that called? That's called rape. That is called violation."
 

Patrol or Die
A 'RADICAL' COP WANTS TO END THE POLICE VS SKATER WAR
By riding around Wisconsin on a longboard

(Screen grab via)

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One valiant policeman is hoping to end "decades of bad blood between skateboarders and police" by riding around Green Bay, Wisconsin on a "skateboard". 

Unfortunately, it's likely that his choosing a longboard for the job may well have doomed officer Joel Zwicky's battle from the start.

Nevertheless, the 40-year-old is hopeful that his new method of transport will help to bring the two communities together; "[The bad blood] isn't going to get fixed overnight," he conceded, before adding that it is "so radical to be skating on duty that that kind of sparks up conversations, even if it's like, 'What are you? What are you doing? Are you for real?'"

It's unclear exactly why Zwicky is so intent on bettering relations between cops and skaters – rather than, say, cops and communities that actually feel marginalised and harassed by the police – but if you're into his vision you can keep up to date on his website.


How to Make It as a Dominatrix

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Photo by Dirty Dirty Wrong

Lady Lila Stern is one of Los Angeles's fastest rising dominatrixes. When Mike Kulich from Skweezme.com told me about Stern, he described her as “a nice, Jewish, New England girl who rose the ranks to become one of the top pro-dominatrixes in LA.”

A nice, Jewish dominatrix may sound like an oxymoron, but Stern fits the bill. Two years ago, she launched her career when she was just another floundering actress struggling to pay her bills. Looking to find ways to earn extra money, she started working in the sex industry because domming fitted her strong personality. Soon she was screwing with guys as a full-time job.

Since then Stern has discovered the perks of her job. Unlike Hollywood actresses who aren’t named Meryl Streep, dominatrixes can see their careers get bigger as they age and become more experienced. Stern’s occupation has also allowed her to find her “inner domme” and transform from a kinky, submissive New Englander into a dominant superwoman. As an ode to her budding career, Stern recently got a large tattoo of a mermaid holding a human heart. “People see the heart and tell me, ‘You know she's under the water,’” she said. “I don't give a fuck where she is!”

Interested in learning more about Stern’s work, I met with her last month to discuss her clients, sex work's perks, and how to make it as a dominatrix in Hollywood. 

VICE: How did you become a successful dominatrix?
Lady Lila Stern: They have these parties, and you go to three or four parties. It was pretty crazy to be honest, because even though I had a lot of experience in my personal life, it is a lot different – these people are strangers. That's why we have clients that stay such a long time. It's kind of incredible; you can build such an intense relationship.

What do the majority of your clients come to you for?
I do have clients who are into fetish as well as slaves. It's a pretty good mix of both. 

What’s the difference?
They are very different clients. A guy that comes to me for a foot-fetish session doesn't necessarily want to be degraded and told what a tiny penis he has. Slaves are a little easier to deal with because they're more submissive. More recently there's been an emergence of sensual domming, which is like foot fetishes and smothering – things like that I get a lot of calls for.

Why has your clientele changed?
It's hard for me to say because I've only been pro-domming for two years, but honestly I think it's probably [a good thing]. I think it's happening because a lot more people are open. You know there was that whole 50 Shades of Grey – a very tame version of S&M, but I'm not completely against the book. I think it opened up a lot of people who were afraid to go there [to see a dominatrix] because they thought they'd beat the crap out of you and yell at you, and that's obviously not what domming is.

How has working as a dominatrix changed your personal life?
I've met so many powerful, amazing women that have become my world. Relationships can be funny, but it's translated into my personal life amazingly – it's made me feel so powerful and strong. Relationships are a little tough. When I started domming, I was in a relationship for a number of years with a guy who was heavily into kink. At first it was awesome, but then it got hard as he got a little jealous. I've just realised that I'm going to have to be with a very strong man. Most of the dommes I know are lesbians, or at least have a strong preference for women. What's strange about me is that I am attracted to men who are dominant in their lives. I like to think that anyone who isn't okay with what I do isn't the right person for me, or as my mother says, “You sure don't make it easy on yourself.”

What about the job appeals to you?
I make people's fantasies a reality. It makes me feel like I'm helping people. Pro-dommes are obviously around for a reason. You're providing a service for people – a lot of who have wives or girlfriends, who either are afraid or [in the past] they told [people about their fetish] and they were shunned [becuase of] it – so it feels really good to let people feel some satisfaction and feel fulfilled. I met some people in the industry who helped me find my inner-domme. 

How did that affect you?
That's when I fell in love with it, because I knew it was in me – but it was a strange thing when I started because I don't naturally get off on hurting people. It feels very intense, and sexy, and real. I'm myself doing what I do; it brings out a power that I didn't even know I had. Domming has changed my whole life. I have never been happier in my whole life. I get to wake up every day and be kinky. That's pretty awesome.

Follow Sophie Saint Thomas on Twitter

A Few Impressions: Adapting 'Blood Meridian'

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I have always dreamed of adapting Cormac McCarthy’s great novel into film. Many have tried and failed. There were discarded screenplays from dead adaptation attempts scattered about Los Angeles even back when I was an up-and-coming actor.

Tommy Lee Jones came closest to making it, I think. He was a close friend of McCarthy’s – maybe because of his attempt at making this very project – and later would act in a McCarthy film, the Oscar-winning No Country for Old Men. He also directed a strange but valiantly attempted TV movie based on McCarthy’s two-character play called The Sunset Limited. It was just too hard to make the film feel dynamic with all that dialogue. One thing about McCarthy is his great descriptions of nature, and in this play, all that energy is infused into the dialogue – the dialogue has to carry the weight that the description in books like Blood Meridian does. Maybe it would work on stage – I think the Steppenwolf Theatre Company put it on decades before. That sounds interesting.

I was cast opposite Tommy Lee Jones for two days in a great but little-seen film by Paul Haggis shot in New Mexico about violent Iraq war veterans. I spent a lunch with Tommy, along with the other young actors, some with no professional experience because they had been hired for their military experience – one had actually killed in Afghanistan. He showed us a picture of a mangled pile of flesh and clothing that had – five minutes before the picture was taken – been a man. Over lunch, Tommy told us that he would, the next day, go visit Cormac at his house in Santa Fe.

When I asked him about his attempts to make Blood Meridian, Tommy said that ultimately he couldn’t make the movie because it was too violent. “I was going to make it just like the book,” he said, “but studios get a little scared when a black guy cuts off a white guy’s head and the shooting jets of blood douse the fire. I wasn’t going to cut it back.”

In fact, Tommy’s script wasn’t just like the book because it was only the first third or so. But of all the scripts – the later one by Monahan, Oscar-winning writer of The Departed – Tommy’s was the most loyal. He also said that he had talked to Nicholson about playing the Judge. I see the Judge as Marlon Brando circa Apocalypse Now. But if you could take Brando’s Kurtz character and throw in Nicholson’s smile, then yes, baby.

I dreamed about adapting that film, never thinking that it would happen. If Tommy Lee Jones couldn’t do it and Ridley Scott couldn’t do it – Scorsese and Oliver Stone were even rumored to have attempted it – how could I? But maybe those guys were making it too big. I had recently made a film about the poet Hart Crane, who lived in New York in the 1920s. He went to Paris, Mexico, and Cuba, and we shot it all for less than half a million. So why couldn’t I do Blood Meridian for a good price and keep it bloody as hell? I also saw that the great director and former actor Todd Field (In the Bedroom, Little Children) had recently been attached and then pulled out of Blood , and then by coincidence had been talking to Andrew Dominik about another McCarthy, Cities of the Plain, the third in the Border Trilogy.

Dominik came to visit me in Utah when I was shooting 127 Hours. He witnessed the arm-cutting scene, and then had a chat with me in my trailer. “Weird playing pain, isn’t it?” I said that it was. He wanted me to do Cities of the Plain. As much as I loved McCarthy, Dominik’s film Chopper, and much of The Assassination of Jesse James, the prospect didn’t have the right glow about it.

Dominik continued to court me, and one time during the long courtship I was outside the Columbia University library, late at night, on a break from studying, and he mentioned that he too had once pursued Blood. He said he liked that the characters were basically apes out on the plain, and then everything would be punctured by the dark eloquence of the Judge.

I said that the Judge would be a tricky thing to do in a film, because he was basically Satan but couldn’t be played as Satan. Some of the Judge’s speeches were not exactly realistic, at least not for a film – like how a film version of some of Ahab’s speeches in Moby-Dick, if done as they are in the book, would seem highfalutin. But that’s when I realised that Blood was just sitting there to be adapted. All I had to do was persuade the producer with the rights (who, for now, will go unnamed) to let me adapt it.

I shot a test on my own dime (or on my agent’s dime – she, out of her belief in me, gave me her commission from 127 Hours to fund the test) in order to convince the producer that I could make the film where Ridley Scott, Tommy Lee Jones, and everyone else couldn’t. We shot the sequence where Tobin relates the first time they met the Judge, out on the range, running from Apaches and out of ammunition. We had Scott Glenn as Tobin, my old acting teacher, Mark Pellegrino, as the Judge (in a bald cap), and even Luke Perry from 90210 – he was great in the silent moments. Our test was awesome and I got permission to do the adaptation.

It was a dream come true, but, for various reasons, it fell apart. The unnamed producer got mad at me and took the rights back, so, bam, that’s it. I don’t get to do it. I did another McCarthy adaptation based on his slim but great third book, Child of God, about a necrophiliac – one of my running themes.

As time went by, I realised that McCarthy took much of his material for Blood from other sources – mainly an actual 19th century memoir called My Confession, by a guy named Samuel Chamberlain. Chamberlain participated in the Civil War and even rode with the actual Glanton gang depicted in Blood. There was even a character like the Judge – Aatall man with alopecia who propounded on nature and history. I think My Confession is a future film for me.

In the meantime, I thought I would go through a little of Blood Meridian and rewrite it to see what’s in a word and what’s in a story.

Click through to read James Franco’s alternate draft of Cormac McCarthy’s Blood Meridian.

Introduce the Kid. He is lean and mean. He is sitting by a stove, stoking it. His father is there. He is poor. His wife died long before, at the child’s birth, this is what was exchanged for that: a lean, illiterate runt, 14 years of age, for the woman who had chosen to track through this delirious world of waste with him, only to leave him for the blackness after first bequeathing him with a daughter – off wandering the world, and dying in it, never to be seen by father or brother again, swallowed like a morsel in the maw of earth – and this son, her death knell and her successor. They speak nothing of this, ever, and he, the son, is nothing of her, instead he is a silent, brooding, knuckle of flesh and violence, a killer birthed on the scorched earth to fulfill its destiny.

The stars fell that year. We talk of 1933.  A recorded falling of stars, like Lucifer and his minions outcast and damned, except that this is the new domain of their damnation, a planet inhabited by man in dubious battle with his own kind and self, a race who would use its superiority over the other creatures of this earth to but build engines of its own destruction.

The father is a teacher, although his family is of the Tennessee logging tradition, something rough and hard, men and women living on the essentials of the new Eden, harborers of small traditions of humor and song – but mostly beaten down like proud flags in the dust, white folk ground into nothing, and bitter for it. He, the father, ground into dust by the grain alcohol that he spends his dwindling hours consuming while quoting from the poets, whose names and words are lost on the boy and forgotten as the natural power of the earth arises before him like a lord and master.

This is no country for old men. And aged man is but a paltry thing, a tattered coat upon a stick. My soul is fastened to a dying animal and it knows not what it is; gather me into the artifice of eternity.

It’s a long, hard road and soon the son makes for new parts, the father not much of a memory, certainly not any vestige of emotion, a vessel and ragged instrument that made one final gesture, hardly, of the human imperative of passing something on, but only passing on the flesh. And the deep-seated hate, which was the animus and the vessel, the child, who passed on. See him on the road. He walks into a single sunset that is all sunsets on this trek unto darkness, for be sure – there will be darkness and there will be heat. The blood will serve as the mixture and there will be scalding. The men in the fields work and are dark silhouettes in the background screen of his life story.  It is darkness and the work continues in the sightlessness, with beasts and hackings. The boy moves on, he is walking into manhood, and engagement with the ambulation of the world of importance, read: conflict and power.

Glimpses of the boy in the old days of St. Louis before he is taken by ship to New Orleans, down the great river, old grandfather, for over 40 days, until he is amongst the great old pirate city, and, a regular, inducted in the mix-cultural soup of derangement, swilled liquor and prostitution.

He boards above a tavern and a square, where, for whatever reason, he descends from and faces of with the transitory sailors who challenge him. He is still a boy, but we are not allowed to see him clearly. He is a kid, but also a kind of killer, a creature trained to lock with others in bouts of fist, knife, and otherwise; pressing their faces down into the suffocating mud, he is champion and satisfied. He fights and for no reason.

In a bar he is pressed by the pistol muzzle of a Maltese sailor, no reason need be given, and shot through his back. He turns on his attacker and pierced by a second ball below his heart and bleeds away half of his life while comprehending nothing, heavy breathing on the floor.

That tavern he lived above? The wife of the tavern master takes him on, after he wandered through the streets holding in the precious serum of his own blood. She spends her mornings on her family and the days on him, extracting the metal from his ribs and then cleaning and tending his wounds, making one extra plate per day, gumbo and rice, and sometimes a little sauce; and in the evenings he takes away the pan and disposes of it in the sewer. When he sweats, she mops his brow. When his strength allows he rises in the night and hunches to the river and, four hours later, at sunrise, he is taken on by a boat that is bound to Texas.

Aboard are the cretins found in myths of caves, men cast out from civilised circles, the ones who fled from the light of the fires when that was the center of life, the men with wayward eyes when women and children are about, and lowered glances amongst men, in order to disguise their deep imbedded intentions, the actions that have marked their eyes from the inside. And he is among them, and of them; his father and the songs he sung, and whatever decency and order they could weave, are lost and faded under layers of time and distance, the boy is now the man, that was planted in the howling and restless nexus of his spirit, fertilised by the drift of his life. And the country he rounded, on the rough and robust sea, an old companion to the coast, nuzzled in his shape, canines, of different colour and make, but cohorts nonetheless, was still young, and roughhewn, an open theater where men of his untested temper could roam and cut themselves on it, and allow it to cut them. Scars and molding on both sides.

In the port of his landing the earth had dried so dust was of the temper, it was about men and inside men, creating them, wisening them into beings like the old trees banished to this land from paradise and sucked of their verdure, a land of craggy beings, sentient and insentient, and even then, knowing – knowing and no telling.

He is amongst men and built dwellings once again, and from labor, organized and executed in the tacit understandings of men and women just trying to comport themselves thorough this vale, clean and unmolested, and trusting this wayward beast for the few days and efforts. He wanders. In each town the tacit mold has been stamped on the order, so that in the dark night wanderings, the cries of the whores becomes familiar, as if they were creatures not bred of such societies, but extorted from the ground in one great rising of damned souls, pleading for his succor.

There is a hanged man, one who killed the father, the father rightfully killed for his ignorance and bequeathing of ignorance to the animal that would learn the one lesson that would kill them both, and the minute battle that was waged ended and choked in the dust as the hanged man’s friends fall in to pull his legs as he dangles, helping the passage to the blackness at the end of an ill-dropped rope, he pants are soiled and then they cut him down.

See the portraits: he, in a sawmill, sweat amongst the chips and dust, he works in a diphtheria pesthouse, what this is and what he does, not even he is aware, but he is silent and gets money. Along the way he obtains a mule after working the yard for an old man. This is his life, an aimless piece of energy rounding an unseen beacon. The mule he takes into the land of Fredonia, and centers on the town of Nacogdoches. He is 16.

The Reverend Green has pitched a tent amidst the rain that falls like a solid sheet, and his preaching has drawn crowd in amongst themselves, the tent interior so hot groups brave the rain for periods before pulling back in through the wet flaps and the preaching, a gathering of the spiritual amongst the outlands, civilisation and god, tripping lightly after the vanguards where white men have infiltrated the broken consortiums the peoples of the Americas. Here is the man with the cross abreast the backs of the men with the guns and the swords. The kid stood at the back.

My people, said the Reverend at the front, I could not keep away, this being my place, my place, my home, which is amongst the people, and what do we call hell? Hell is among us if it is among us, but I am home when I am amongst my people, where my people go is my house and my home. And I will brave hell, and round out hell, for these people are my home.

Next to the kid, a man with heavy mustache leans over and breathes down thick breath on him, he is as weathered as the rest, the kid included, sogged with rain, the hat brim hung, and the crown stove.

What a land for rain. And his eyes expectant.

Yeah. The kid, but for his lack of arms, is amongst the outlaws akin to his own self.

In from the rain, a flap of the tent’s membrane is pushed through, steam rising from his shoulders and head – a man, large, a giant. Removing his hat in the dim light he reveals his head, round and hairless as marble, carved long ago, his lips also free of hair, his eyebrows and lids hairless. He resets his hat and mounts the stage. His face is placid and content like a child’s, the hint of a smile, his hands, a child’s hands.

This man before you is an imposter. He is neither who he claims nor does he represent the institution he poses in front of. He quotes a few lines learned from campfires of the damned, and repeats them across these open lands in order to take in unsettle people such as yourselves. He is wanted in Mississippi, Tennessee, Arkansas, and Louisiana.

This man is the imposter, he but claims I own his own guilt. He turned his head into his bible and began reading as quick as he could while the bald giant continued.

His crimes are but the worst exposed by man, but doubly so when they are perpetrated by a man posing of the cloth: a child of 11, one sired by those taken in by his spiels across the states, he was discovered with such lamb en flagrante, in the very robes you see across his back now.

The crowd was audible. Women’s voice rising above the deep grunts of the men.

I’ll kill that son of bitch, from one side of the tent.

This man is the devil. See him before you. He stands Satan.

There was a twinkle of a smile on the great man’s face. The crowd began to move like water, or a unified beast and the shouts became distinct and independent. One woman was seen to collapse to her knees.

Sodom. Sodom. Was heard from the crowd, and in the same area a man unholstered his gun and shot the Reverend Green in the chest. The mustachioed man unbuckled his knife and cut upwards a hole in the tent and pulled the kid through after him, they moved across the rain-pelted road, behind them the tent exploded inward from shots and cries, other expellees pushed through holes as the whole thing began to move like an animal, desperate, until it finally crumbled on one side and then the other, an elephant brought to its knees.

The man with the bald egghead was at the bar when they entered. He had a drink before him and two finger-lengths of coins by his arm. The kid and the mustache man moved behind him and down the bar. The bar is tall, built for a land of giants, but the bald man meets it with ease, leaning over it and planting himself in half poise.

When the kid pushed forward coin to the bartender it was pushed back.

This is on the judge, yonder.

The bald man didn’t look over, but the tooth in his back mouth revealed itself.

Just then a crowd from the tent entered, mud-caked and bloodied, like creatures from the bog. They had organized a posse to relinquish the false preacher.

Judge, how did you know of him?

Who?

The Preacher Green, when was you last at Fort Smith?

Fort Smith, you say?

Yes, such perpetrations of the preacher, he was last seen at Fort Smith, before this, when did all this come down? When was he met before this?

I’ve never seen that man in my life.

But…

There is a silence among the men and the room, and then laughter arose from one, then two, and then the group. All and the judge were laughing and it filled the room with a clapping exaggeration, like barkings of seals out from mustached portals full of blackened teeth.

(Things happen. He meets Toadvine, a man without ears, as they were cut from his head. He does other things. Then meets up with Captain White and goes hunting for Apaches. After days of traveling in the desert the company finally has their showdown.)

They are on the plain, far to the south there is something. The captain stops the troop with a raised hand and pulls a collapsible glass from his saddle bag, there is a small rupture in the surface of the horizon, but far, so that it looks like smudged haze, just on the surface of the earth. He hands the glass to the sergeant.

Looks like cattle, he says.

It’s not buffalo.

Bring Candelario up here.

The Mexican comes to the front of the line and the sergeant hands him the glass, then he lowers it and looks with his naked eye.

They not buffalo.

We know, horses most likely.

Si.

The captain takes back the glass and collapses it, then motions and they move forward.

The herd comes into focus, a motley of horses, mules, and cattle, running with a handful of riders at the edges, Indians, ragged on small ponies and others with hats, possibly Mexicans. The captain hands the sergeant the glass again.

What do you reckon?

Horsetheives?

So do I. Think they’ve see us.

Yes, they’ve seen us.

They don’t seem concerned.

Nope.

Well, we might have a bit of fun this day.

As the head of the heard passed the company stands by, first a raw bevy of mismatched cattle, long and twisted horns, no two of the same color or size, and amongst them black coated mules with their dumb anvil heads, lifted above the dustcloud mass, forward moving and of the crowd, working their lot, and then the vanguard of the riders is there, parallel to the mass of ponies, hundreds in breadth, thin and muscular, of the plains, dried and mean; the riders, when abreast the company, peel back to the back of the stampeding beasts.

The captain is up and down the collection of his company pointing at the flanking riders and yelling above the pounding of hooves. There, on the sides of the ponies were the passing collage of markings, drawn up from ancient stores of symbols, fish, and antelope, forked spears, black points, idealized forms that rose from the dust and endured and fell by the hands of man, ancient, regressive, and wild, a civilization based on the essential, passing in zoetropic motion, when amidst the thunderous rumbling round and round, annular systems, the piecing and very straight sound of the quena, the sharp familiar of the pipe made from men’s bones, high and shrill.

From the back of the heard emerges a host of warriors, hundreds strong, riding the waves of dust, some of the riders popping up from suicide positions, revealing their numbers at the last minute, the legendary death bands, horrible, their shields bedecked with shards of mirror, clasping and refracting millions of shards of light into the eyes of the onlookers bestride their hoof-shifting horses.

They, the animals aware of the superior threat bearing down in a nightmare swoop; on the demons, at first unified and riding the sounds of the routing flute pitch, painted faces like fairground horrors, and voodoo grandfathers, skulls of white and black slashes, bold and thick, projecting perennial grins of death; lank bodies of muscles, begird in nothing at all beneath the thick and wild skins of various beasts, tanned and flapping, condoning the stripped beasthood upon the new wearers, and on some the scrapings of the kills of whites and Mexicans: fun house jewelry, decadent and sun dazzling, uniforms of cavalry, braided but torn and worn open and rebellious, bedecked with feathers and twisted braids of hair, both human and animal, and black nuggets that would be skin, ears, and noses, curled and shrunken in the days of sun without relent, and flowing like haunting wraiths on the hosts of greater demons, wisps of white and colored cloth stripped from dresses and undergarments, a full wedding veil, streaked with blood like a prop from a night of virginal horror, and one in a top hat like the nightmare spoof of a doctor come to call, and a pair on one side bareback abreast two black beasts, they calico companions: one bare-assed in white stockings, the other in a white dress raised above his knees, their black hair trailing off behind in ropy tails, like pythons, two sisters of death, animal and man connected and driven; a whole race emerged from the dry cauldron of the earth, where the heat and cracked earth fostered demons, and the rolling-eyed, slack-mouthed madness of fighters were the animal norm, and meat was planted on the earth to be torn from beasts and beings and torn by sharp teeth.

Lord, help us, says the sergeant.

The horde lets loose a cloud of arrows that pass through the company, men pause and then drop from their horses, the mounts trip about and fall forward or sit on their haunches, arrows like matador piercings sticking from their bare sides and faces, the men fire but too soon – the dust of panicking beasts is about them, blinding and encompassing, as if the raised elements were functions of the savages, now howling and whipping their hair about, they ride on the falling company with lances, and gallop over the shrieking faces of the white men; the Kid’s horse sinks down like a deflated balloon figure and he leaps from the doomed beast, all around him men shriek and try to reload their pistols and rifles amidst the cutting feet of horses and the reaching hands that would on horseback pull men to their feet and scalp them standing and drop them like denuded offal, the Kid’s own rifle is expended and he can’t make amidst the rounding to reload.

A confused horse comes within the swirling cries of dust and kicks and bites at him like a dog, the other men mad and confused, in efforts to retreat or just exercise the last agency they would have on this earth, staggering about and walking into the exterminating points of their foes who felled them like paper targets on a range.

And then the warriors dismount, leaping from their mounts midstride, and taking up the momentum in barefooted beelines they race toward the staggering cavalrymen and rip their knives about throats like can openers, or stick and up thrust bellies so that intestines are twisted into each other into impossibly tangled bunches of cut seaweed falling in lumps on the wrong side of the epidermal walls, some men pulling their wasted guts back inside only to be yanked into kneeling backbends and have a knife worked around their crowns in bloody excavations of their heads, blessed and tonsured to the skull bone. Ambling about, dead on their feet but for the bleeding out; the screeching, grounded Apaches whirl about the fallen whitemen and cherry-pick their victims, taking scalps from the living and dead, cutting noses, lips, ears, and genitals from the living and dead.

One man, already scalped watched with wide-open eyes as he is held down by his forehead, fringed by the remaining hair on the browline and the native, with three quick blows, knocks in his teeth and then claws the chicklets from between the man’s empty gums.

Some of the warriors wear the blood and grime like clothing, one wears a man’s stomach on his head and all around dead and squirming bodies alike are choked with their own severed cocks, their pants with holes pouring blood like vaginal passages erupting; and some howl as they sodomize their victims, slashing and stabbing as they ride, screeching and leaping about, from body to body as the men lay dead or dying in the settling dust and the pathetic cries of horses.

A Night Out with the Foreign Tourist Police in Thailand's Seediest City

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Photos by Aaron Joel Santos

Thailand’s most sinful city, Pattaya, is famous for getting men a little hot under the collar. And discontent is boiling over at the police mobile unit stationed at the entrance to the resort town’s infamous Walking Street. A giant Pakistani man is stating his case vociferously to the volunteer foreign cops who patrol the red-light district on a nightly basis. Beside him, a feminine Asian form on skyscraping stilettos chews gum and shoots him sour looks. “I am not a homosexual,” cries the man. “This thing deceived me,” he says, jabbing a finger at his companion, whose perceptibly manly features and guttural tones make it obvious she was born a he. 

“He refused to pay her,” says Andros Plocins, an English member of the Foreign Tourist Police Assistants (FTPA), as we watch the scene unfold. “So now we have to sort it out.” The situation is soon defused. The man, who it transpires, had got a degree of value for the transaction before he realised the reality of the situation, has to pay the agreed price. The ladyboy, meanwhile, is hit with a 200 baht (€4.50) fine for soliciting. “He should have just paid in the first place,” continues another policeman, laughing. “She was pretty hot.”

Taking care of such misunderstandings is among the many responsibilities of the FTPA. Foreign volunteer police have been pounding Walking Street since 2002, when Pattaya’s Tourist Police Division invited foreigners to assist them. At first, their primary role was to help Thai officers with translation and to provide an informal tourist information service. The FTPA still provides support to foreign visitors, but its scope has been widened to include duties such as stopping bar fights and apprehending thieves. Although volunteer officers don’t have powers of arrest (approval is needed from a supervising Thai officer), they carry handcuffs, batons and cans of pepper spray. Indeed, with their black SWAT-esque uniforms, they cut imposing figures. 

The FTPA numbers around 60 members from 20 different countries while its reach extends across the greater Pattaya area thanks to the recent introduction of motorbike patrols. Despite this diversification, however, Walking Street, which they patrol every evening from 9PM to 3AM, remains the primary beat for volunteer officers. 

To a legion of visiting men, the thoroughfare is something approaching paradise. Extending a little over one and a half kilometres from the centre of town to the ferry port, the pedestrianised strip is a neon-lit playground of wall-to-wall go-go bars. Teams of mini-skirted girls patrol the exterior of the larger venues hoping to lure in johns. Smaller operations rely on the age-old tactic of employing impressively vocal barmaids whose throaty cries of “welcome handsome man” can be clearly deciphered over the thumping techno that is the street’s constant mating call.

Pattaya is not just about sex tourism however. The city’s proximity to Bangkok’s Suvarnhabumi Airport (it is a short two hour hop away) makes it one of Thailand’s most popular destinations for package tourists. Russians in particular flock here, as do Chinese, Indians and Arabs. The town’s civic leaders have gone to great lengths to rid the city of its reputation for sleaze and many of these new visitors are families, couples or tour groups who seem blissfully unbothered by the trade in flesh that is as integral to Pattaya as its slightly shabby beach. 

It is an eclectic mix of people, and the various nationalities generally rub together peacefully. However, for all the efforts of the local authorities, it will take more than a few Siberian families to burnish Pattaya’s image.  Bar fights, drug crime and tensions between tourists and sex workers are regular currency on Walking Street. Elsewhere hundreds of freelance prostitutes ply their wares; drivers donate their lives to one of the worst road death tolls in Thailand and scores of methamphetamine pills fuel further craziness.

Keeping a lid on the mayhem would be a tough job for the most hardened police team. The fact that much of the grunt work is carried out by foreign volunteers is therefore even more remarkable.

“This place isn’t what it used to be, that’s for sure,” laments Dave Eke, another British member of the FTPA. He should know. A one-time security manager at tough East London nightclubs during the era of mobsters like the Kray twins, Eke left the UK for Thailand over thirty years ago and has been living in Pattaya since 1979. For the last twelve of those years he has devoted most of his nights to pounding the streets of the city as a volunteer officer. 

A lugubrious character anyway, Eke’s hangdog features droop visibly as he reflects on the nightly parade of humanity on Walking Street. “I wouldn’t say that Pattaya is exactly a magnet for bad eggs,” he says, “but there’s definitely a good proportion of idiots that come here. They will get uncontrollably drunk and then refuse to pay a bar bill or something. The Thais used to be very friendly, but they have been worn down and now it is a lot more cynical. What a lot of visitors don’t realise is that it is very dangerous to anger Thais. And if you cause trouble in one of the go-go bars or you get into an argument with a girl or the management, you face the prospect of a beating from a bouncer, most of whom are trained in muay thai.”

If Eke seems weary, his FTPA colleague Plocins is clearly living the dream. He came to Pattaya on holiday following his retirement from a police career in Befordshire and fell in love with lifestyle. The novelty clearly has not worn off. “Pattaya has its moments of course, but it still feels like a dream to me,” he beams. “I could be back in England, retired and bored with a retired and bored wife. Yet here I am, the sun is shining and I’m surrounded by hundreds of beautiful women. It is a no-brainer.”  

Despite his downbeat disposition, Eke is clearly a well-known and well-liked figure in Pattaya. We join him and Plocins as they leave the mobile unit to patrol the length of Walking Street. Eke, resplendent in his military beret, leads the way, stopping frequently to exchange wais – the traditional Thai greeting – with mama sans, bar girls and ladyboys. “It is not enough to walk around in a police uniform to get people to respect you,” he says. “You have to build up a relationship with everyone over time. That means everything here.”

It is certainly not a good idea to cross the locals on Walking Street. Use of ya ba, a methamphetamine derivative which translates literally as “madness drug” is prevalent in Pattaya, especially among sex workers and other nightowls. Originally given to horses to give them energy to pull carts up steep hills, the drug, which comes in tablet form, typically engenders euphoria but it is highly addictive and its side-effects are unpredictable. “If there wasn’t so much ya ba doing the rounds, there wouldn’t be half as much trouble,” claims Plocins. “Booze can make people leery and aggressive but the drugs can really step things up a notch.”

Unsurprisingly, catching dealers is a top priority for the regular Thai police and there are stiff sentences for those busted. To avoid being nabbed in possession, pushers have devised a number of hiding spots for their product in the vicinity of Walking Street. 

Eke takes pride on being able to sniff out these nooks and crannies. “You’ll need to get away from there,” he instructs a group of confused-looking Russian teenagers who are drinking by a wall at the port end of Walking Street. Eke removes a loose stone from the lower part of the wall and lowers himself onto his haunches to perform closer investigation. “I find bags in here all the time,” he says as he stretches his arm into the space vacated by the rock. On this occasion, however, he comes away empty handed. 

Back at the mobile unit the atmosphere is relaxed. FTPA volunteers give directions to lost tourists and have their photos snapped by jovial vodka-fuelled Russians. To pass the time they share some of their Pattaya horror stories. Ladyboys brandishing stiletto heels as a weapon seems to be a common occurrence, while gruesome motorbike accidents and dead bodies washing up on the beach attest to the city’s darker underbelly. 

This particular evening, however, is something of a non-event. “It is one of the quiet evenings,” admits Eke. “Thankfully these are the most common nights but we always have to be ready and on our toes. It is Pattaya. You never know what might happen next.”

Follow Duncan Forgan on Twitter

 

Who Needs Headphones Specifically Designed For Watching Porn?

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Taiwan is a fairly filth-friendly island. Unlike on more conservative mainland China, it’s not uncommon to be able to buy dildos openly at night markets there, and earlier this year the region’s first sex-themed restaurant, Funny Sex, opened in Kaohsiung.

With the place being a hotbed of the electrics industry too, it’s little surprise that the Taiwanese are often a few steps ahead of the pack in the sex toy stakes. Still, when I heard that a Taiwanese company called LovePalz recently came up with earphones designed to enhance the experience of watching porn, I did wonder why.

Who would spend $39 [€28] on a pair of headphones for use purely whilst watching a bluey? And does the disconcerting hardcore porn connoisseur really care about audio quality when he or she is watching Schindler’s Fist or Anal-ize This?

After ordering a press sample, I spoke to Oni Chen, platform director of the product. “Our headphones are tuned to focus on the sound of human voices,” he said. “For example if you like jazz music you’ll have headphones tuned for jazz.”

The LovePalz marketing blurb claims the product makes female voices, “More pleasing and less sharp and male voices fuller and rounder.” Chen said he employed a crack team of testers who gave guidance about what they were after in their porno sounds, then tuned accordingly.

To be fair, the product was designed for couples’ Skype sex sessions as well as pimply teenagers watching video grot in their bedrooms with the curtains drawn. But either way, isn’t this just pointlessly fine-tuning an aspect of porn that is always going to be a distant second to the visual element?

“Most people don’t normally pay attention to the sound,” said Chen. “It’s just there happening naturally. But if you turn the sound to mute it’s weird. And we found that if we improved the sound quality people said, ‘That’s different’. Also, I personally don’t use earphones when watching porn, but some people need to if they share a flat with their family.”

When the earphones arrived, I couldn’t help thinking they could have made the packaging a bit sexier. At least have them in a velvety box with the two gender logos on them or something. But the proof is in the pudding, so I loaded up RedTube and compared and contrasted the sound quality between my common or garden earbuds and my new Ladobi.

The results were unspectacular. The vocals did sound a touch sharper than those fed through the normal earbuds, but it didn’t feel like an effect I couldn’t have achieved with a few tweaks of my laptop audio settings. Plus, the difference could have been the result of placebo. But to be sure I wasn’t somehow missing out on the most sexually revolutionary product since the curry flavoured condom I enlisted three volunteers – one more guy and two girls – to test them too.

Anonymous Girl Tester one:

How were the porno headphones compared to the normal ones?
The difference was so slight I could barely notice it. I’d just come home from yoga, so I watched a video named Petite Yoga Cutie Gets The Fuck Of Her Life, and after replaying a couple of times I realised the porn headphones brought out the subtler, whispering notes in the audio. The ‘breathiness’ of the heavy breathing became more perceptible and less grunt-like.

They supposedly make female vocals, “more pleasing and less sharp and male voices fuller and rounder.” Was that the case?
The guy had a silent role, or was a very well endowed mute, so I can’t really speak for the "roundness and fullness" of his voice. The girl gave giggly dirty chat and lots of "sexy" howling, shrieking and at one point whinnying, oddly. I didn’t think her voice was made more pleasing. I couldn’t pick up a noticeable difference when it came to the screaming, for example, which for a female voyeur is often the most uncomfortable part given the rape-y connotations.

Is sound important in porn?
Yes! It’s up there with narrative and plot. If the sound is poor quality, or equally if the plotline stinks, then it’s an irritation that distracts from the overall enjoyment of film, which should culminate in a warm fuzzy relaxed feeling. As for the actual sounds that are made – guttural moaning, timid squeaky "instructions" – this is a fundamental ingredient that decides whether a movie will live or die. As a woman, I’m not a big fan of all the screamy stuff. It sounds fake because it is, and therefore undermines the whole fantasy element. Also sometimes it sounds like the women are being hurt which is not cool for obvious reasons.

Do you watch much porn? Would you be tempted to use these headphones again?
I have watched it in the past but don’t use it on a regular basis. I would not use the phones again.

Anonymous Male Tester One

How were the porno headphones compared to the normal ones?
I watched Prison Bad Girls 2 – Drop The Soap, and found using the headphones a decisively unsexy experience. The near-luminous yellow of the buds was unattractive, and the fact that there is a mic attachment seems to indicate they were just repurposed headphones from a mobile phone. Their banality left me pretty frigid.

Did they make female sounds, “more pleasing and less sharp and male voices fuller and rounder”?
For starters, if you’re watching porn with sharp female shrieks you’re probably watching the wrong stuff (though different strokes and all that). But I can’t say the porno ‘phones enhanced my viewing pleasure. They sounded slightly louder, but that’s about it and that came with the issue of increased background fuzz.

Is sound important in porn?
No-one likes cold, silent sex and watching porn on mute is similarly unsatisfying. The various moans of pleasure and grunts of exertion are part of the experience of sex and a very arousing aspect of it. Of course, you want that replicated in your pornography.

Would you be tempted to use them again?
I can’t say I’d be tempted. Sure, using headphones means my flatmate can’t listen in on what I’m watching, which is a bonus, but the sound quality isn’t that good and they’re not especially comfortable. Also, the short cord means they’re only good for watching something on your computer. If you’ve got a DVD you want to watch, your face is going to be right up next to the screen.

They cost $39. Good value?
$39 doesn’t mean you’re being supremely shafted – unlike one of the actors in the film I watched – but it’s a bit much for some headphones that aren’t of great quality. You can go on Amazon and get a half-decent pair of Sennheiser headphones for less, so why bother with these?

How would you improve them?
I’d make the design more appealing; make them look less like something you’d see in motorway service station or that’s fallen out a Christmas cracker.

Anonymous Female Tester Two

What video did you watch, and how were the porno headphones compared to the normal ones?
Though Homy MILFs Artistic Facial [sic] promised rich rewards, I was attracted to the superior production values and artful cinematography of a company called Nubile Films, and went for their Passionate Fuck With Redhead. The headphones did a better job at blocking out external noise than my Apple-made buds. Overall the LovePalz headphones were less tinny.

Did they make female vocals, “more pleasing and less sharp and male voices fuller and rounder”?
It felt a bit like there was a woman just behind me, rasping and grunting into my neck. On screen the white stucco balcony and terracotta vase suggested a Magaluf villa, so I liked to imagine the couple were enjoying a sweet holiday fling. As the acoustic guitar soared over the opening credits (“starring Kattie Gold”) I regretted having headphones at all. As Kattie slipped off Sergio’s pants and started giving him a blowjob the music was replaced by moans, a frenetic flesh-on-flesh slapping and squeaks from the pouf they were performing on (first doggy, then all sorts).

Is sound important in porn?
My video eschewed dialogue. It was a bit National Geographic. I wasn’t after a sonnet but a line or two of sexy chat would have created a richer soundscape.

As it turns out LovePalz porno headphones are not going to revolutionise the act of cracking one off, and will likely remain a curiosity of Asia’s pleasingly bonkers sex appliance industry. The Beats By Dre boardroom committee members can exhale a collective sigh of relief for now.

I Taste-Tested Various Nutraloafs at a Historical Prison Site in Philadelphia

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Taking all the food in your pantry, blending it up into a weird paste, and making someone drink it isn’t just a timeless American pastime – it’s also a classic form of behavioural control that has been institutionalised in prisons across the country and even sanctioned by the justice system.

For years, prison kitchens across the country have been cooking up edible Frankenstein sludges, made from various parts of different meals, that wardens feed to particularly unruly prisoners as a form of punishment and behavioural control. The sludge is known as “nutraloaf,” and recipes for the nutritious mélange vary from state to state in the US.

One thing that doesn’t vary is that the prisoners who eat the stuff hate it. But so far, despite numerous lawsuits filed by prisoners claiming that the food constitutes a violation of the 8th Amendment's protection from cruel and unusual punishment, no recipes have been deemed as such. The loaf, which is referred to in the penal system as a “Behaviour Modified Meal,” is typically served as punishment for breaking or throwing trays, utensils, food, or poop. It’s doled out three days in a row for a first offense, and typically seven days in a row for any offense after that.

Recently, a historical prison site in Philadelphia decided to mix up its usual Monday-night hoagie-cheese steak-water ice-scrapple extravaganza, and instead handed out samples of nuraloaf from across the country. Although they didn’t offer any samples of the notorious Arizona-style nutraloaf, which got a reputation for being the nastiest of the nasty after Maricopa County sheriff Joe Arpaio won a federal case allowing him to serve the stuff, I decided to check it out anyways so that any foodie who finds him or herself in the pokey will know what to expect.

State: Oregon and Washington

Taste and texture: I hope you like meatloaf, because that’s essentially what their nutraloaf tastes like. It has the same texture as undercooked beans, and occasionally a mushy apple sliver or a chunk of sour cabbage interrupts the otherwise savory taste. But overall, with a little bit of ketchup or barbecue sauce, I guess it wouldn’t be too bad.

Recommended pairings: I’d suggest eating the Oregon/Washington-style loaf with a standard domestic lager, like a Yeungling or Brooklyn Lager. Any house red, like a merlot, would be fine as well and something that shouldn’t be too hard to bribe a guard with sexual favours for.

State: Illinois

Taste and texture: The Illinois version is much lighter than the one found in the Pacific Northwest. Although it contained meat, it had a much sweeter flavor, with strong hints of tomato and carrot, as well as a little garlic spice, which was a nice touch. The texture was comparable to a dry brownie that falls apart when you try to hold it but can be easily mashed back into its pasty batter form. Even though I've never tried vegan meatloaf, I'd imagine this is what it tastes like.

Recommended pairings: You might want something a little spicier to counterbalance the kick that this Midwest varietal lacked. I’d suggest going with something like a red zinfandel, or a pinot grigio, an imitation of which, so long as you have the right molding spices, could always just be brewed in a trash bag under your bunk.

State: Maryland

Taste and texture: The Maryland loaf gets points for having more moisture than any of the other loafs, but it also loses points for tasting so much like vomit. Somehow, it manages to perfectly evoke that simultaneously moist and grainy, salty-with-a-hint-of-sweet-curry, dehydrated ooze that barely makes it out of your mouth and onto your front steps as you crawl home from the bar after drinking nothing but beer and whiskey and then thinking it’s a good idea to hit up an all-night kebab stand without getting any water. And the most surprising thing about it: it’s completely vegetarian.

Recommended pairings: We’d suggest something rich and fruity, like a Bordeaux or a pinot noir, to counterbalance its strange acidic tang. These can get a little pricier, so you might need to start doing your warden’s taxes, Andy Dufresne–style, to get your hands on a few bottles.

State: Idaho

(Dinner)

Taste and texture: If you find yourself eating the dinner nutraloaf in Idaho, count yourself lucky. Although it has one of the weirder recipes (e.g., “gelatin, any flavor”) it didn’t taste half bad. It was the first loaf that didn’t have that dry Fancy Feast texture. Instead it felt more like eating cafeteria mac and cheese, which, despite how you feel about what your high school lunches tasted like, at least you’re back in familiar territory. I was also able to easily distinguish some of the ingredients in the loaf, including corn, beans, and ground bits of meat. The mint-flavored gelatin in ours was vaguely off-putting, and the use of American cheese and margarine definitely undermined the claim that the stuff is supposed to be healthy, but a heavy dose of onions and beef gave it a comforting Tex-Mex appeal, and overall it was my favorite.

Recommended pairings: The strangely creamy yet south-of-the-border combination seemed to call out for sweet and strong porter, like one of those caramelly nitro beers that cost like a tenner a bottle. This will be next to impossible to come by in prison, but if you have a good friend with a large anus, perhaps you guys can work something out.

(Breakfast)

Taste and texture: Maybe skip breakfast in Idaho, though; it was by far the worst one we tried. The ingredients were unsweetened dry cereal, granulated sugar, powdered milk, breadcrumbs, margarine and orange juice. Maybe they just went a little too heavy on the bottom-shelf orange juice, but it tasted about as metallic as chewing on tin foil. It had the texture of soggy cereal that had been left to dry on the side of the bowl, and you could almost taste the cereal varnish. If General Mills had to mass-market it, they would be legally required to call it Curdled Flakes. We were just glad it was served cold, because otherwise we would have guessed that someone’s cat had just coughed it up.

Recommended pairings: The only reasonable drink we could suggest for this would be something extremely alcoholic. Skip the beer or the wine and go straight for the rotgut, preferably something piss-yellow. You’ll need to get the taste out of your mouth, and to get your mind off the fact that you’ll be eating this crap for the next couple of days.

By the end of my five-course taste test, I felt a little underwhelmed. On some level, I was hoping to see just how violated my tastebuds felt, but all said and done, it was nothing to write the ACLU about. 

Sure, there were occasional violent clashes of taste and texture, but for the most part, it was all just boring and uncomfortable – like they somehow took everything that makes prison a place you’d never want to go, boiled it down into an edible form, baked it in a disposable aluminum pan, and then served it. The punishment isn’t the taste; it’s the fact that you have to keep eating it every day until someone decides you don’t have to anymore. 

The VICE Guide To Europe 2014: The VICE Guide to Amsterdam 2014

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Return to The VICE Guide to Europe 2014 homepage

(All photos by Raymond van Mil unless otherwise stated)

The Dutch capital is a compact museum city being sunk into its canals by rich Americans staring at Rembrandts and the revolving cast of perverts and drug addicts who infest the red light district. Here’s how to not be awful in Amsterdam.

Jump to sections by using the index below:

WHERE TO PARTY
WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH DRUGS?
POLITICS, PROTESTS AND JUST HOW RACIST IS EVERYONE HERE?
   Screw in the Park But Don't Wear Football Boots | Protests? What Protests? | Immigration
WHERE TO EAT
WHAT DO LOCALS EAT?
LGBT AMSTERDAM
WHERE TO DRINK
WHERE TO STAY
WHERE TO HANG OUT WHEN YOU'RE SOBER
HOW TO AVOID GETTING RIPPED OFF AND BEATEN UP
HOW NOT TO BE A SHITTY TOURIST
PEOPLE AND PLACES TO AVOID
TIPPING AND HANDY PHRASES
A YOUTUBE PLAYLIST OF QUESTIONABLE LOCAL MUSIC
VICE CITY MAP

WHERE TO PARTY

De Soos

Leidseplein 12 1017 PT

One of the very few reasons to go to Leidseplein is for the Chicago Social Club, which everyone just calls "De Soos". It’s a former theatre that’s been converted into a laidback club with a big dancefloor and it attracts every Dutch person who dresses a bit like you.
LINK

Trouw
Wibautstraat
127-131, 1091 GL

This is hands-down the best club in Amsterdam, and the atmosphere on the dancefloor is as good as in any club we’ve been to in Europe. They somehow manage to book great DJs every single night (apparently great DJs love coming to play in Amsterdam, who’d have guessed?) but if you’re planning on going, make sure you’re au fait with who’s on that night because the doormen can be dickheads. Name the DJs who are performing, and they’re more likely to let you in. Be quick, because 2014 looks set to be the last year Trouw (that's what we call it for short, let's face it, it's got a fucking stupid name) is open. They haven’t announced why they’re closing yet, but they have just banned cameras, so maybe they’re really, really paranoid about their appearance or something.
LINK

Studio 80

Rembrandtplein 17, 1017 CT

Rembrandt Square is the fucking pits, but tucked away between all kinds of horribleness is Studio 80, which for almost a decade has been one of the city’s most important clubs on the house and techno scene. It’s almost exactly 50 percent better than Studio 54. That’s just maths.
LINK

Canvas
Volkshotel, Wibautstraat 150 1091 GR
The Western world's current sad lust for putting clubs in hotels hasn't spared Amsterdam, the difference being that ours isn't a waiting room peopled by new media dads with shark fin haircuts, mediocre laptop DJs and bemused foreign exchange students. Canvas is actually on top of Volkshotel, an old newspaper factory in the east of the City, which means it's now the only club in Amsterdam with a view worth opening your eyes for. Get a bottle of something fizzy and take your loved one up to a hot tub on the roof to experience just how glamorous the death of print media can be.
LINK

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(Photo by Ewout Lowie)

WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH DRUGS?

Contrary to stereotype, Amsterdam isn’t a lawless free-for-all. There are plenty of rules but, despite talk of changing the law, it remains legal for anyone over 18 – tourists included – to buy weed in Amsterdam.

However, the national government is now relatively anti­-marijuana, and Amsterdam is closing dozens of coffee shops because they can’t be close to schools any more. Our best guess is that weed will be here to stay, but the "anything goes" attitude is long gone.

There are areas that display "no smoking weed" signs, but they aren’t actually enforceable. Still, if you see one you’re probably not in the best spot. As a general rule, if a bar is clean and tidy, sparking up a joint in the smoking area will be frowned upon, even if it’s technically legal. So if you want to keep smoking you’re better off sticking to dark and dingy dive bars. Such is the stoner's lot.

The tobacco laws are just as ad hoc. Officially, a smoking ban in all bars and restaurants was passed a few years ago, but after a while an exception was made for small bars. There are smoking areas in most clubs, and in some it’s sort of accepted that people light up after a certain time of night. Follow the lead of the locals if you don't want to look like a prick.

Mushrooms are effectively still legal. They now don’t come in their OG mushroom format, but as a sort of nutty root called "Philosopher’s Stone Truffles". They have the exact same psychoactive substance in them and are derived from the actual mushrooms. You can buy them over ­the ­counter at any smartshop, most of which have an orange mushroom logo out front.

Holland is one of the largest producers of MDMA in the world, and in classic Dutch style we can send our pills to a government test lab who will tell us if they're good quality. The government would rather have us rolling hard than dead. They used to have these services at large raves, but sadly Christian political parties had them closed down because they felt “it sent the wrong signal”. The wrong signal being “safety first”, apparently.

Cocaine is relatively popular but the quality varies, as do the attitudes of those selling it. Locals know that the street coke dealers are kind of sketchy, and no one wants to get mugged by some scumbag.

Just because cops are relatively easy-going, doesn’t mean people don't get into trouble. People who are caught by a bouncer carrying one or two pills probably won’t get in and will definitely lose their drugs. Anyone using openly is chucked out once a bouncer sees them. Anyone with enough on them that they could feasibly be dealing will end up meeting the cops, though the police have been known to be lenient to people carrying small amounts, provided those people aren’t dicks about it. Anyone who goes all hippy badman and calls them narcs or fascists are probably going to end up in a cell.

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POLITICS, PROTESTS AND JUST HOW RACIST IS EVERYONE HERE?

SCREW IN THE PARK BUT DON'T WEAR FOOTBALL BOOTS

The Vondelpark – the best park in town – has its own set of rules. It's the only place in the Netherlands, and maybe the world, where you can legally fuck and smoke weed outdoors. There’s a certain etiquette to it: Go in the evening or night time. Avoid the children's playgrounds. Be a good human being and pick up your condoms. Also, you can’t go to the park while wearing studded football boots, although admittedly that’s quite a specific fetish.

Squatting has been illegal in Amsterdam since 2010, and while the few squats that remain are still tolerated, they're quickly becoming relics of an already lost struggle.

Geert Wilders and his Party for Freedom are pretty far right, but they've become more and more mainstream as they've gained popularity over the years. Although Wilders is anti-EU, he currently wants to remain a member of Parliament in the Netherlands AND be granted the opportunity to become a member of the European Parliament, which is currently a legal impossibility.

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(Photo by Alejandro Tauber)

POLITICS, PROTESTS AND JUST HOW RACIST IS EVERYONE HERE?

PROTESTS? WHAT PROTESTS?

The Dutch aren’t known for taking to the streets in anger. Our country’s unofficial motto is: “Act normal, that's crazy enough.” We tend to think of street fighting as the sort of thing that happens in other countries.

Amsterdam's last major riots were more than 30 years ago. On the 30th April, 1980, squatters took to the streets to protest the national housing shortage. This was the date that our former queen Beatrix was set to be crowned and grand festivities were scheduled in her honour. Instead, tear gas filled the air and shops were looted as police and rioters went head to head. 

Protests since then have been very small and are more likely to come from the extreme left than the extreme right. Having said that, Occupy Amsterdam hardly made a political dent here. The populist right sometimes have their moment in the sun, like when they demonstrated in defence of Santa’s helper "Black Pete", enthusiastically reminding the planet that there’s nothing remotely racist about Father Christmas having an assistant (slave if you will) in black-face.

Act normal, that's crazy enough. Remember that and you'll understand how Amsterdam was built on pragmatism rather than passion. It also makes the city and the Netherlands as a whole more boring than it probably wants to be.

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POLITICS, PROTESTS AND JUST HOW RACIST IS EVERYONE HERE?

IMMIGRATION

Despite the country itself being a product of late medieval immigration, immigrants have been a source of stupid debate in the Netherlands for decades. 9/11 didn't do a great deal to quieten the issue. Back then, immigration’s harshest critic was the right-wing politician Pim Fortuyn, who was assassinated by an animal welfare activist turned immigrant activist in 2002. Which did not help anyone, least of all Pim, better understand the benefits of an open, free and multicultural society. 

Although the worst of the storm seems to have passed, the fight over what it means to be Nederlands continues. This is mostly fuelled by Geert Wilders, the leader of the Party for Freedom, who rails against Muslims and workers coming in from Poland, Bulgaria and Romania.

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WHERE TO EAT

Rijsel

Marcusstraat 52, 1091 TK

A small, well-lit rotisserie with a 60s vibe where they serve no-­nonsense food. This is a good place to chill out and not spend too much money. It's not a good place to come if you’ve just eaten a load of mushrooms and need to hide in a darkened room until the walls start behaving themselves.
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SLA

Westerstraat 34
These days, coming back from Amsterdam healthier than when you arrived is the real act of rebellion, kids. Go to this salad bar for all the organic ingredients you can shovel into your mouth, then stick around for the workshops on healthy cooking so you can learn how to stop living on microwavable cheese meals made from sodium and donkey curd.
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Brouw
Ten
Katestraat 16, 1053 CE
Everywhere on earth does beer and burgers these days, but Brouw’s are actually good. They’re famous for their slow-cooked and smoked meats, so try their brisket, pork belly and ribs and forget everything you learned at SLA about healthy eating. Meat is murder sure, but it’s also suicide.
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Koevoet

Lindenstraat 17, 1015 KV
This Amsterdam institution has been here since 1889, so it doesn’t get much more authentic. It’s an Italian place located in the middle of the Jordaan, and as far as we can tell they’ve barely changed the menu since it opened. Seeing as people have been eating here since your grandparents were doing whatever the Greatest Generation's version of snapchatting dick pics was, they must be doing something right.
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Le Fou Fow

Stormsteeg 9, 1012 BD
This is the best place to get Japanese food in Amsterdam. You’ll find it on the second floor, right above an Asian food shop that’s been giving it the big one here since 1957. Oi oi Fou Fow!
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WHAT DO LOCALS EAT?

Stroopwafels
What you need when you’ve hit rock bottom after a long, hard day of smoking stupid-strength weed is a hit of sugar, and Dutch people are always jonesing hard for a stroopwafel. It’s basically a cookie made from two thin waffles sandwiching a layer of syrup. It's really stupid stoner food, basically. 

Kroketten and Frikandellen

Imagine putting a cow, a pig and a horse in a blender, then rolling the resulting mess into a sausage shape, covering it in breadcrumbs and deep-frying the lot. Voila! Kroketten and frikandellen are to Dutch cuisine what doughnuts and burgers are to American diners: disgusting, supposedly irregular treats that have slowly worked their way into our daily diet.

Roti

The former Dutch colony of Suriname blessed us with some great food traditions. One of the tastiest dishes is called roti and contains curry chicken, potatoes, beans and the most important element: a sort of salty pancake. Sadly, it seems unlikely that the Surinamese are currently going nuts for stroopwafels. I guess imperialism is a one-way street.

Stamppot

There are a few different varieties of stamppot, but the gist of it is that you mash up a bed of potatoes and boiled vegetables, and then lay a nice fat smoked sausage across the top of it. One of the most popular versions is made with kale, which is funny because this stodgy, filling traditional dish is just about the least likely thing to ever be eaten by San Francisco yoga mums.

Drop
Dutch people fucking love liquorice; as a nation we eat more of it per person than any other country in the world. But be warned: our liquorice is not like your liquorice. The little black sweets we eat, known as drop, have such a distinctive ammonium taste that unsuspecting tourists usually hack them back up as soon as they taste them. Only the deeply Dutch can manage one without pulling a face like they’ve just bitten into a dog turd.

Gouda Cheese

You really should taste Gouda from a cheese shop while you’re here in Amsterdam, but be aware that from then on you’ll never be able to buy it at home again. This is the cheese equivalent of drinking a pint of Guinness in Dublin or doing crystal meth in Fresno.

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LGBT AMSTERDAM

Amsterdam has a long history of being a great and tolerant city for gay, bisexual and transgender people. Homosexuality was decriminalised in 1811, the first gay bar was opened in 1927 and in 1946 the COC – one of the world’s first gay rights organisations – was founded here. The Netherlands prides itself on being the first country to legalise same-sex marriage, and the first legal gay and lesbian marriages in the world were officiated in 2001 by the Mayor of Amsterdam. 

In recent years, though, a handful of incidents have stained the tolerant image Amsterdam has built. Unfortunately, it’s still not unheard of for gay couples kissing or holding hands in public to receive abuse. In another setback, a series of prominent gay bars and clubs have closed, all for different reasons and none for lack of business. However, some argue this is just a sign of greater integration. Practically all bars are gay-friendly, so nightlife needn’t be segregated.

That said, if you're looking for specific gay bars there are still plenty left. The main gay street is the Reguliersdwarsstraat. Search a bit further and you'll find bars and events like De Trut, Spellbound, Fucking Pop Queers, GOD, Dolly, Yarr and Nyx. If you’re looking for a transgender bar you should go to De Lellebel at Rembrandtsquare.

If it's your style, there are also plenty of dark rooms. Like the Spijkerbar. Downstairs you can drink as if you were in any other folksy bar, but if you go upstairs you’ll find yourself in pitch darkness where you can do pretty much whatever wild shit you feel like doing. Alternatively, Thermos is the place to go if you want a dirty quickie in a jacuzzi, hot tub or sauna on the way home from the club.

One other highlight is Canal Pride. Every year on the first Saturday of August, dozens of boats glide down the canals of Amsterdam. It’s more of a politically correct endorsement of tolerance than a wild party, but it’s still good fun. The Milkshake Festival (for all who love) is in late July and is another festival for "boys who love girls who love girls who love boys who love boys", which is just about as inclusive as you can get.

Amsterdam has an official gay and lesbian information kiosk, Pink Point. It’s next to the Homomonument (gay monument) at the Westermarkt. Pink Point provides information about the Homomonument, and general information about Amsterdam, specifically for gay tourists. 

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WHERE TO DRINK

The best places for a quiet drink before you head on for a night out are the bars clustered around Noordermarkt, the flea market in De Jordaan. There are only two real dangers: a) vomiting teenage tourists who can't stomach three beers and b) falling in the canal. My favourite pub is probably Paepeneiland, which is also where Bill Clinton came for a beer a few years ago. You should have seen the amount of Secret Service they were employing to keep him out of the red light district.

Further afield, we’d recommend checking out Joe’s Garage, Brouwerij de Prael and Brouwerij ‘t IJ. Roest is good as well – it’s in the east of the city away from the crowds, with a pool and a terrace covered in sand to create an ersatz beach bar, despite the industrial surroundings. You won’t find many other tourists here, which – if the International Holiday Code still applies – makes you cool, or something.

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WHERE TO STAY

If you’re watching your money, the Hans Brinker Budget Hotel (€25 per night in a dorm) isn’t a bad choice. It’s the rowdiest party hostel there is: come for the price, stay for the location, leave when you can’t stand the noise a second longer.

A quieter option is Stayokay Zeeburg (€30 per night in a dorm). It’s your average big clean hostel, but it’s really good value and it’s smack in the heart of a fancy-ish neighbourhood in the east of the city, so you won’t get freaked out by sex tourists jerking off on the doorstep before breakfast. An alternative is the sleek boutique CitizenM (€85 per night for a room), which is pretty great for the price and has all the ultra-modern fixtures and fittings that interior designers jerk off over – it's not really in the heart of anything, which in a city with an international clique of drug zombies looming about, can be a blessing.

If you’ve come into a large inheritance, Hotel Américain (€150 per night for a room) is a gorgeous hotel in the Jugendstil style, with bags of old school class. And if you’re involved in some sort of Brewster’s Millions scheme to dispose of a vast amount of money, the most ridiculous option is the Faralda NDSM Crane Hotel (€435 per night for a suite), which is a good place to take someone if your fetish is getting laid in a box suspended 50m in the air. Because that’s exactly what it is – a box suspended 50m in the air. Obviously there's also a jacuzzi on top of the crane.

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WHERE TO HANG OUT WHEN YOU'RE SOBER

Look: you’re going to have to try pretty damn hard not to have an amazing time in Amsterdam. It’s one of the world’s great party cities, so for fuck’s sake don’t come all the way here and then spend your trip hanging around Rembrandt­square or Leidsesquare. Those places are just shitty honey traps for shitty tourists. The city has loads more to offer, and it’s small enough that you’ll probably stumble across the best bits just by getting out there and exploring.

Having said that, if you’re looking for some direction and some cool crowds to hang with, it’s worth looking into both Rush Hour Records and Red Light Records, where you’ll find flyers for all the best underground parties. If there’s nothing here that excites you, then chances are you’re just not cut out for "fun", you miserable sod. 

Rent a Canal Boat
Okay, so maybe we didn’t push the idea quite as far as those ridiculous Venetians, but Amsterdam is still a city that’s best experienced from our canals. Drinking, smoking and eating while on a boat is basically our life, and there’s plenty of them to rent, so get yourself on the water as soon as you can. Chances are, back home, you live in between an A-road and an A-road, so this is the open sea to you – your Master and Commander moment. Avoid the shitty "canal bikes", though – there’s a reason the Armada didn’t run on peddle power.

Electric Ladylight Museum
Run by an eccentric New Yorker with a Father Christmas beard, this museum of fluorescent art is the only one of its kind in the world. It has sections called things like "The Magic Land of Lights, Sounds and Dimensions" and "The Sister Mary Bernadeth Grotto", so yes, obviously it’s absolutely the best place to go when you’re tripping balls.
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Savoy Bar
This is a super shabby café where everyone winds up after all the other bars and clubs have closed. In the early hours, prepare to encounter a fascinating hotchpotch of prostitutes, drug dealers, frat boys, cokeheads, students, tourists and old sailors. There's a women there who sits outside the toilets called Wilma who’ll sell you five different sorts of candy and cigarettes straight from a garbage bag. Which sounds bleak, but when you think about it, is more wholesome than most deals you make in a toilet.
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Broek in Waterland/Durgerdam
The most scenic places to burn a joint in Amsterdam, far from the basement coffee shops, are towns to the north of the city, like Broek in Waterland and Durgerdam. They’re absolutely beautiful, and frankly, getting really high in a horrible basement is about the single biggest contributor to mental ill health in the Western world. Here, in the hills, it’s a different drug.

The Docks in the North
For some reason the north of the city gets neglected by most tourists, which is stupid as all the ferries there are free and it’s a great place to hang. The new EYE Film museum has some cool exhibits and there’s a nice spot by the water where you can eat, drink and take in the views of the low-rise city. It’s just across the river from Centraal Station, and you can’t miss it because it’s the only building round there that looks like a bad CGI spaceship from an early-90s computer game.

Hanneke’s Boom
This place is Amsterdam’s chameleon. Smack in the heart of the old harbour, by day people come here to study, but by night it becomes a romantic bar and the terrace becomes an outdoor party. It also has nothing to do with Michael Haneke, so there’s no reason you should expect to have to watch the life slowly ebb from an elderly person.
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Special Collections at the Rijksmuseum
So, you’re done with all the Rembrandts and Vermeers? Good – the best shit is yet to come. Head down into the Rijksmuseum basement, where you’ll find piles of gold and jewellery and the realest treasure in history: 17th century magic lantern porn.
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Coffeeshop Bluebird
Most coffee shops in Amsterdam will sell you weed or hash just to turn a profit , but not Bluebird. This place is run by experienced old stoners whose life’s work is getting you as high as God. Normally there’s nothing duller than listening to potheads bang on about why you have to try their new strain, but if you’re going to smoke weed it may as well be the good stuff. Oddly, they don’t have any of that plastic soapbar everyone smoked when they were 14.
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Sarphatipark
Away from the sleaze and grime of downtown Amsterdam, this cute little neighbourhood park that’s surrounded by bars and takeaways is where locals actually hang out. No one there will be too hyped to see hundreds of VICE readers pitching up, so try not to act like a jerk.

Kattenkabinet

A museum entirely devoted to cats in art. It’s like imgur IRL.
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(Photo by Ewout Lowie)

HOW TO AVOID GETTING RIPPED OFF AND BEATEN UP

Taxi drivers in Amsterdam are notorious for overcharging tourists. At any obvious tourist location – like Centraal Station, Dam, Leidseplein and Rembrandtplein – drivers will compete for your attention and then drive you in rings around the city while the meter ticks up.

The city has started using mystery customers to try to catch taxi hustlers, but the chances are you’ll encounter some type of bullshit if you take a cab. The best thing to do to avoid hustlers is to walk 100m away from the tourist hangouts and try to catch one on the side of the street. Obviously you should never get into cabs that don’t have an official sign.

As lovely as Amsterdam is, it's also a place with a reputation that screams SEX and DRUGS, two fun things that dickheads have been managing to make money out of by abusing other people for centuries. And the red light district is where they come together to swap tips on how to be a cunt to women. Anyway, the vibe round there can be nasty and buying drugs on those streets, late at night when you're fucked up, is probably the best way to get yourself jacked by some bastard or other. 

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HOW NOT TO BE A SHITTY TOURIST

We like it when tourists on bikes take an interest in local culture, but why the fuck do you all clog up the city centre? There’s a whole city to explore, but most of you end up getting fucked after a couple of blunts and then wobbling a bike down the uneven streets of the tiny 17th century downtown area. Stoned tourists, busy streets and canals are a recipe for the most repetitive slapstick performance of all time. Get out of downtown, spin your wheels and see some more of the city.

Another terrible tourist trait is taking photographs in the red light district. The women who work there don’t appreciate it, and chances are they’ll let you know by hurling your camera in the canal.

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PEOPLE AND PLACES TO AVOID

Frat Boys in the Pijp
The Pijp is the stomping ground of Amsterdam’s frat boys – you’ll know it from the mingled stench of sweat and sexual desperation. They’re like all frat boys – violent, sexist, privileged, stupid, thuggish, unattractive pricks. If you walk through a pile of them they’ll smell the decency on you and start lobbing bottles at your face.

Bike Taxis
Amsterdam’s taxi drivers are pretty bad, but the bike taxis are even worse. On the plus side you do get to spend the whole journey staring at their lycra-clad ass. On the minus, they’re slow, expensive and they’d drag a baby through deserts of blood just to get a tourist fare.

De Wallen

This is Amsterdam’s largest and best-known red light district (or blue light, for the transvestites). We know the area gives the city part of its identity, but the truth is it’s home to a staggering number of abused and trafficked women from all over the world. It’s grim as hell and fucking prostitutes just isn’t cool.

Street Dealers
Amsterdam is one of the easiest countries in the world to buy drugs in, so don’t pick them up from guys in the street unless you’re really into handing over loads of cash for Pro Plus and rat poison.

Leidseplein

It might be great as a tram hub, but why is this terrible square still in all the tourist guides? It’s the place you end up when you don’t know where you’re going. If you do find yourself here, leave.

Kebab shops
Strangely, for a city with so many people wandering around fucked after dark, late-night food here is fucking abysmal, especially near the RLD. Kebab and shawarma are sometimes reheated by plunging them in boiling water. It’s overpriced and it will kill you slowly. We know you won’t listen to us when you’re drunk, but we’re telling you anyway: You’re better off going home hungry.

Amsterdam Dungeon

This place has hardly anything to do with the real history of Amsterdam. It’s a classic tourist trap. You’d learn more about Amsterdam if you stayed at home smoking a tea bag and googling pictures of canals.

Escape

Regularly named as a beacon of Amsterdam nightlife, but in essence just a really shitty club, it boasts the unholy trinity: shitty music, shitty drinks and shitty people. Go next door to Studio 80.

Kalverstraat
Amsterdam’s main shopping street. The shops suck and it’s full of tourists who are just as lost as you are. How much interest do you really have in generic high streets in the Netherlands? Fucking none, that’s how much.

Het Damrak

This is the street right in front of Centraal Station, so for most tourists it’s their first sight of Amsterdam. The beautiful old buildings are hidden from view by fences and garish neon signs directing you to the endless shops selling T-shirts with slogans like: "Good girls go to heaven, bad girls go to Amsterdam". You have no business here.

The Sex Museum
We’re all for taking a liberated and open-minded attitude to sex, but Amsterdam’s Sex Museum is not the place to go for a nuanced discussion of interpersonal gendered power relations as they relate to consensual BDSM. It’s the place where stoned teenagers go to point at boobs and willies. Your Auntie Margaret doesn’t want to see a picture of you on Facebook posing with a 7ft cock, and neither does anybody else.

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(Photo by Sabine Rovers)

TIPPING AND HANDY PHRASES

Tipping
Dutch waiters and bartenders are used to dealing with miserly people, so tips in restaurants and bars usually aren't that high. Ideally, waiters and bar staff would expect about 10 percent, but they tell us it's often more like five. For taxis, just round up the bill, and don't tip in nail salons, hairdressers or at any other place you'd class as within the service industry.

Handy Phrases
Hello – Hallo
Goodbye – Tot ziens
Please – Alsjeblieft
Thank you – Dank u
Where do I get cocaine, motherfucker? – Hoe kom ik aan coke, kankerlijer?
You're hot – Je bent lekker
Beer? – Biertje?
Is sex with a fist acceptable in this dark room? – Is seks met een vuist aanvaardbaar in deze donkere kamer?

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A YOUTUBE PLAYLIST OF QUESTIONABLE LOCAL MUSIC

Here is some Dutch music. It's pretty good right? You'd be singing along if your clumsy foreign tongue could handle our language.

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VICE CITY MAP

That's all I think. You'll thank me when you're not bleaking out, wandering lost through the red light district on 'shrooms.

Love,

– VICE Netherlands

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Remembering Downtown’s Documentarian Nelson Sullivan

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Twenty-five years ago this month, on the 4th of July 1989, video artist Nelson Sullivan suddenly died of a heart attack, leaving behind almost 1200 hours of footage of the now iconic and heavily romanticised Downtown New York scene. Ranging from performances by renowned drag queens RuPaul, Lypsinka, Tabboo! and Lady Bunny at the Pyramid Club to parties with notorious “Party Monster” Michael Alig, Sullivan’s videos record an insider’s view of the D-I-Y self-constructed world of nightlife personalities set against the barely recognisable terrain of 1980s New York City.
 

As his friend and frequent subject, nightlife columnist Michael Musto wrote in an obituary for Sullivan in the 10th of July 1989 issue of OutWeek Magazine, “Thanks to his scrupulous attention, Nelson’s left behind a treasure trove of late-night videos that, even more than the Warhol diaries, trenchantly capture the party years in all their gleeful decadent fun.”
 
Whether documenting the humble and hilarious beginnings of today’s superstars by taping a young RuPaul strutting through the Lower Manhattan streets in football shoulder pads draped with toilet paper or preserving the legacy of greatly missed performers such as Dean Johnson, the 6’6” bald drag singer of the rebellious punk band Dean and the Weenies, Sullivan’s videos present an unparalleled look at this thoroughly outrageous and unfortunately long-gone era. Not only do Sullivan’s videos show nightlife at its height, but he also depicts the ever-changing geography of New York, walking his dog Blackout through the desolate streets of the Meatpacking District to the decaying and decrepit former cruising spots on the Hudson River piers.
 
 
Nelson Sullivan and Sylvia Miles, photo by Paula Gately Tillman
 
Even with the overwhelming interest and nostalgia for this period of New York history, as well as its pop cultural continuation through television shows such as RuPaul’s Drag Race, Sullivan’s work remains one of the lesser-known records of that nightlife scene. However, Sullivan’s videos have recently been revitalised through both the Internet and archival collections, asserting the importance of his captured performances and Sullivan’s art itself.
 
Born in South Carolina, Sullivan moved to New York in the early 1970s. A classically trained pianist, Sullivan, by day, worked at the Joseph Patelson Music House, a classical music store located behind Carnegie Hall. Originally planning on writing a book similar to Charles Dicken’s Great Expectations on his experiences in New York, Sullivan suddenly realised that it would be easier and more effective to turn on his video camera, showing his audience what was happening. 
 

 
In 1983, Sullivan began videotaping his daily (and nightly) excursions to famed clubs such as the Saint, Limelight, Danceteria, the Tunnel, the Pyramid Club and Area. In addition to the clubs, Sullivan also attended and recorded the booming East Village galleries, street protests and parties in his own home at 5 Ninth Avenue, which became an almost Factory-esque meeting place for Sullivan’s nightclubbing friends. 
 
Like many artists of the period, Andy Warhol heavily inspired Sullivan as seen in his ever-present video camera, which like Warhol’s tape recorder, became almost an extension of his persona. Drawing on Warhol’s adoration of boredom, Sullivan’s tapes revel in the lengthy and at times, mundane backstage and dressing room conversations. Warhol himself even makes an appearance in Sullivan’s work at Fiorucci. Discussing his relationship to Warhol, Marvin Taylor, the director of New York University’s Fales Library and Special Collections, which holds the Nelson Sullivan Video Collection, explains, “He’s clearly heavily influenced by Warhol – even the notion of documenting a scene. His relationship with Holly Woodlawn is important because of that lineage, but he has his own set of people – John Sex, RuPaul and all the others who were part of his moment and his scene. He’s very consciously working that.”
 

 
While much of Sullivan’s earlier work sees Sullivan disappearing into the background like a fly on the wall, noticeable only when one of his subjects greets him with a nonchalant “Hi Nelson”, his videos evolve in 1987 when he turns the camera on himself. Abandoning his enormous VHS camcorder for a smaller Hi8 after suffering a hernia due to the camera’s weight, Sullivan begins to maneuver the 8mm camera in order to transform himself into the narrator of his own artistic documentation. Much like his friends’ self-fashioned identities in the nightclubs, Sullivan constructs his own personae as a witty, queer and unquestionably Southern flâneur, wandering through the decadence of 1980s nightlife. Drag historian Joe E. Jeffreys, who points to Sullivan as a predecessor of his own video documentation of drag, views Sullivan’s sudden appearance in his own videos as significant. “What’s amazing to me about Nelson’s work is that he includes himself in his own,” says Jeffreys, “He’s able to take the camera, turn it on himself and become the narrator. He’s not just the vocal narrator but he’s actually visually present as the narrator in his work, which takes it to another place and another level. A lot of people looking at the work think there must be another cameraman out there but no, he was just that fluid with the camera he was using.”
 
After Sullivan’s tragic and unexpected death, which came just days after he quit his day-job to pursue a cable access show, his childhood friend Dick Richards quickly secured Sullivan’s staggering collection of videos, storing them in his Atlanta home with his partner David Goldman and occasionally screening a selection on his own cable access show The American Show. In 1993, queer historian and archivist Robert Coddington was introduced to Sullivan’s work through Richards. While at first fascinated by Sullivan’s merging of art and documentary, Coddington did not realise its historical importance until years later in 2000 when he, with Richards and Goldman, dedicated themselves to preserving and promoting Sullivan’s work and legacy. Since then, the three have mounted numerous exhibitions on four continents, placed Sullivan’s videos in film festivals, and, more recently, started a YouTube channel, 5 Ninth Avenue Project, hosting a selection of edited versions of Sullivan’s videos.
 

 
Through the 5 Ninth Avenue Project on YouTube, Sullivan’s videos have gained a new, younger and wider viewership. Asked what the response has been to the 5 Ninth Avenue Project, Coddington responds, “It’s incredible. There’s so many people that write to us at the channel. There’s a lot of younger kids who are looking at New York. Of course, New York is not what it was back in his day. One of the biggest hits we’ve got is a video taking the subway to Coney Island. A lot of websites use that footage to talk about old New York, especially with the graffiti on the subway. There’s a lot of nostalgia in the comments.”
 
However, the moment that, in Coddington’s opinion, “really solidified issues about Nelson being relevant or not”, came in September 2013 when Fales Library and Special Collections acquired the Nelson Sullivan Video Collection as a part of their Downtown Collection, which holds archives from New York subcultural luminaries such as Richard Hell, Nick Zedd and David Wojnarowicz. Director Marvin Taylor recalls, “Robert Coddington contacted me, said that he had Nelson’s material and asked if I knew about him. I knew the name, but I had not seen very much of the footage. So he sent me a link to it and I went, ‘Oh, this is unbelievably amazing.’ Not just his documentation of the club scene in the 80s, but also because of Nelson’s work himself as this queer flâneur artist very consciously floating through the scene. It conjured all kinds of notions from the Rimbaud series from David Wojnarowicz and a link with French decadence. We didn’t have any documentation like this at all.”
 
Questioned about the historical importance of Sullivan’s videos, Taylor says, “The club scene often gets dismissed as just partying, but the truth is and what Nelson actually shows is how much art was being created there. It was one of the last little bubbles before the Internet – one of the last insular cultures that we don’t have anymore because everything has gone global and digital. He captured perhaps one of the last analogue moments in New York.”
 
 
While Sullivan’s videos may be the last analogue moment in New York as Taylor suggests, his work also clearly foreshadows more contemporary forms of D-I-Y videos. Recording his experiences like video diaries, particularly after 1987, Sullivan’s work takes on an undeniable similarity to the self-representation and self-constructed personas inherent in vlogging. While Sullivan’s work may have been too obscure to have a palpable and perceptible effect on the development of vlogging, Coddington notes, “He was the first vlogger when you look at it.”
 
Another perhaps more direct continuation of Sullivan’s video documentation of raucous, rebellious and sometimes, raunchy nightlife and performance scenes is Joe E. Jeffreys’ Drag Show Video Verite, a video project screening Jeffreys’ footage of nightlife performances from drag to burlesque to boylesque including many of the same performers that appear in Sullivan’s videos years earlier. Introduced to Sullivan’s work through Coddington during his research on Downtown drag legend Ethyl Eichelberger, Jeffreys immediately recognised the power of Sullivan’s videos to capture and preserve past performances. As Jeffreys remembers, “It was an amazing thing to see these old pieces of history that I’d otherwise see in a still photograph. You weren’t there but this is generally as close as you’re going to get.”
 

 
Asked how Sullivan’s work influences and connects to his own frequent video work, Jeffreys responds, “It’s the idea of a unique form of capturing this thing that’s going on every night. You do start to see the circles and connections with people within the scene today. A lot of people of Nelson’s period are still around and still working, so it’s a continuation of that. The video camera can change the world in that way. The revolution won’t be televised but it will be videotaped. We’re going to videotape this, project it into the future and see what happens. I don’t know if that’s what Nelson was trying to do, what his intent was, but to some extent, that’s what it’s become. It’s a gift to the future, capturing the past and the moment. This is the moment I’m in right now, let’s point and shoot and see what happens.”
 
 
Thinking about the importance and ongoing legacy of Sullivan’s videos, Robert Coddington explains, “He did more than just capture a scene. He was able to show the people of today and the future, the start of this D-I-Y culture that we have.” Considering the question further after our conversation, Coddington sent me a quote from an interview he conducted with World of Wonder co-founder Fenton Bailey as a part of his archival research on Sullivan. Bailey understands Nelson’s videos as a record of the origin of today’s pop culture. “If you want to understand why we are here now, all you have to do is look at there then,” says Bailey, “And thanks to Nelson’s archives, you can do that. How important is that? Well, that is actually incredibly important because that’s history. And no one else, funnily enough was doing it. And no one else did it. So his archives are a completely unique moment. Nelson’s archives are as valuable in its own way as the pyramids in terms of telling you about a society at a certain point and what it believed it was about.”
 
As Marvin Taylor echoes, “I think people will come to understand if you really want to know what it was like in the 1980s in New York, you have to watch Nelson Sullivan’s videos.”
 
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The VICE Guide To Europe 2014: Welcome to the VICE Guide to Europe 2014

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Illustration by Sam Taylor

Hi. This is the VICE Guide to Europe 2014. A travel guide featuring: pork, anarchists, bicycles, politicians, fishermen, racists, tear gas, cocaine, pizzas, techno, beer, football fans, bands and waiters.

So, in no real order at all, here they are:

PARIS

"The techno DJs are still pricks, the waiters are still rude and the big nightclubs still suck... But we know where the good shit is" – READ

BERLIN

"The German capital is one of the planet’s great party cities, where your every dream and darkest desire has been turned into a three-storey nightclub with a merciless door policy" – READ

LONDON

"Everything you need to know about the best and worst city in the world" – READ

GLASGOW

"Edinburgh might have the castle, the parliament, the Japanese tourists, the neo-classical architecture and the advantageously low murder rate, but Glasgow has all the fun" – READ

AMSTERDAM

"The Dutch capital is a compact museum city being sunk into its canals by rich Americans staring at Rembrandts and the revolving cast of perverts and drug addicts who infest the red light district... Here’s how to not be awful in Amsterdam" – READ

BARCELONA

"Gaudi, Messi, the Mediterranean and parties that go on all night, every night... The only problem is the riots" – READ

BUCHAREST

"A place where you can smoke indoors, a bottle of vodka costs a quarter of what it does back home and where the closing time is whenever the last person stops celebrating the end of communism" – READ

COPENHAGEN

"A city full of meat, weed, sex and anarchists... What's not to love?" – READ

ATHENS

"A Greek city that always knew how to party and has spent the last decade learning how to fight" – READ

WARSAW

"We’ve spent 25 years embodying the totally mindless hedonism that capitalism encourages" – READ

MILAN

"The most attractive people wearing the best clothes eating amazing food and each other" – READ

LISBON

"Here in the Portuguese capital it’s so hot we have to party on the streets, we go until dawn and we’ve decriminalised all drugs... WAHEY!" – READ

MADRID

"Fuck Barcelona, we’re better" – READ

PRAGUE

"Blessed by beauty, history, gay-friendly vibes and a relaxed attitude to drugs... Cursed by fucking British people on stag-dos" – READ

STOCKHOLM

"Hot people, teenager rappers, very, very expensive" – READ

VIENNA

"Basically, Conchita Wurst has replaced Mozart" – READ

As you can see, they're travel guides for people visiting other countries on holiday or the run, but you should read your home city's guide, too. I'm sure you'll get really pissed off that loads of places you like weren't included, even though the possibility of pleasing everybody is unfathomably slight. Fourteen of VICE's European offices have contributed with lengthy pieces to help loutish visitors turn their capital cities into theme parks full of booze and piss. (Plus Barcelona – Spain did two. There's also Milan – we chose against Rome for some reason I now can't remember – and Glasgow. The UK office's Glaswegians did that one. Also, apologies to Ireland, Belgium, Iceland, Norway, Finland, Russia, Slovenia, Serbia, all cities that aren’t capitals and Rome. This is not a slight on your sovereignty, we just ran out of time.)

As ridiculous as it is to try to sum up a city in three to eight thousand words, I think they're pretty good tools for anyone travelling around these places with dreams of being thrown out of nightclubs, staring at landscapes, or getting involved in a riot they have nothing to do with.

These will be soon be rolled out in every other nation and every other language, so if you're only really here to read about the Bussey Building in Greek, you'll have to wait a week or so.

From now on we'll be updating it every year, so come 2015, make sure to check back otherwise you could end up hanging out in last year's coolest Viennese lesbian bar, and you'll look like a right prick.

Here's some basic shit we've learned about Europe from this process:

– Everyone thinks the cab drivers in their cities are crooks.
– Nearly everyone believes that their town is relatively crime-free, so long as you're not a total idiot. Which sounds borderline psychotic now that it's written down.
– The sign of a truly bourgeois town is bike theft.
– It's hard to get drugs in Central Europe but every nation reckons they’re heavy drinkers.
– Those bourgeois cities with bike theft problems are real arseholes about tourists getting confused by cycle lanes.
– Some squats offer you a bed, others throw rocks at your face.
– No one likes heroin addicts.
– There are Camden Towns in every country in this tacky continent.
– There’s no such thing as a happy red light district.
– Lots of places seem to believe they invented meat and potatoes.
– Ultimately, every nation's idea of a perfect evening boils down to drinking in the street.
– European chart music is still shitty.
– There are so many more burger restaurants in the Western world than there were a decade ago.
– Weirdly, the Swedish word for "you're welcome" – Varsågod – is pronounced "war-so-goooood".

Thanks to:

Sam Taylor, Kevin EG Perry, Barry Nicolson, David Georgi, Daphne Kokot, Julie Le Baron, Julien Morel, Alice Rossi, Andi Galdi Vinko, Juanjo Villalba, Alejandra Nuñez, Thanasis Troboukis, Ioana Moldoveanu, Mihai Popescu, Ian Moore, Caisa Ederyd, Adam Pesek, Markus Lust, David Bogner, Mikołaj Maluchnik, Rui Marcal, Loes Koster, Thijs Roes, Raymond van Mil, Paul Geddis, NTS Radio, Neymar, Red Dog Saloon, Joe Bish, Lauren Martin, Jo Fuertes-Knight, Elektra Kotsoni, Simon Childs, Jamie Clifton, Kev Kharas.

It’s quite late now, so sorry if we forgot you. Email Elektra and moan about it. War-so-goooood.

What Wisconsin's Teenage Girls Think About the Slender Man Stabbing

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(Photos by the author)

Editor's note: Names have been changed to protect the identity of minors. 

On the 31st of May, two 12-year-old girls in Waukesha, Wisconsin subdued and stabbed a female classmate 19 times.

When questioned by police, Morgan Geyser and Anissa Weier claimed they wanted to murder the girl to curry favour with Slender Man, a fictional online horror character whose stories mostly revolve around him stalking, traumatising or abducting people, particularly children. Their plan was to leave the girl to die, before moving into Slender Man’s mansion in some nearby woods. Fortunately, a passing cyclist noticed the wounded 12-year-old and called an ambulance.

In Waukesha, the culture since the attack has centred around tight-lipped niceties; instead of talking about the crime, locals sell candles out of their gardens and cut hearts out of coloured paper to leave at the spot where Geyser and Weier’s victim dragged herself to safety. And it’s the same for any tragedy; a reaction usually involves a neighbour leaving a casserole on the sufferer’s doorstep, before ducking home and never discussing the offering or what prompted it.

In contrast to their parents, however, teenage girls in Wisconsin want to talk about the case. They have a lot to say about girl-on-girl violence, and are patently unsurprised by the fact that Geyser and Weier concocted their stabbing plan while still in middle school. According to the girls I spoke to, feeling inclined to stab someone is common at their age.

“Middle school sucks,” Bethany, a 16-year-old from Waukesha, said through a mouthful of Oreos. “It’s a terrible time, and it would drive anybody crazy.”

“Girls are just mean when they’re in middle school,” Eliza, a 15-year-old from the same county, told me over the phone. “Middle school is where it really starts. I think it depends on how mentally strong you are, and how much you can take. But yeah – it can make you insane, I think.”

Jenny, a 17-year-old Waukesha native, told me that adults in the area want to see Weier and Geyser punished more than local teenagers do: “The victim’s family is getting all of this support – there’s a whole shrine set up for [the victim] in the cul-de-sac, even though she isn’t dead.”

“But as far as the stabbers,” Jenny continued, “there’s a lot of hatred towards them. A lot of disgust.”

After a lengthy silence, she continued: “I had a really rough time in middle school. It’s when you’re learning about all the stuff that’s gonna happen to your body, and you’re like, ‘Shit. I dunno.’ And then everyone keeps it to themselves because they don’t want anyone to know that they’re going through puberty – like, gross – so they keep it inside, which is unhealthy and enough to drive anyone crazy.”

Caroline, a 16-year-old whose high school “plays Waukesha" at various sports, introduced a new theory. “It’s boring and scary to talk about at school, because kids just react how their parents react, saying how fucked it is that small children are capable of murdering their own friends,” she said. “And if you say the wrong thing, you’re, like, a monster, probably. People want to pretend it’s evil so that they look good, and also because they want to think something like this would never happen to them. They react how they think they should react because they’re afraid to say it’s just childhood boredom gone wrong.”

It had been a while since I’d reflected on the nightmare of middle school. But speaking to teenage girls in Wisconsin over Skype, or on the phone, or sprawled out on some living room rug, I was reminded of its horrors. Unless you’re lucky enough to get your period in high school – which carries its own outsider-y trauma – puberty and middle school are inextricably entwined.

Teens’ capacity for full-blown embarrassment at this stage in life allows girls to torture one another in excruciatingly resonant and gender-specific ways. Of course, stabbing is gender-neutral, and calling 19 stab wounds “bullying” would be a huge understatement, but the teenage girls I spoke to believed the incident belonged in the same spectrum as “mean girl” behaviour.

Every one of the teenage girls I spoke to asked me not to use her name for the piece, lest girls at school “go crazy” and “get all vengeful”.

“Girls are bitches,” Caroline said softly. “At my school they flush peoples’ pants down the toilets, and during gym class they replace the heavy girls' clothes with smaller clothes.”

“This one girl at my school, her friends decided they didn’t like her, so they took her Uggs and poured lotion in them and destroyed her locker,” added Caroline’s friend MacKenzie. “She had to leave the school. She came back a few years later and her mum started an anti-bullying club. But her mum ended up being the biggest bully of them all, writing things about the other girls in newsletters. Now they’re in Florida.”

According to the New York Times, one girl stated that they went into the woods to “stabby, stab, stab”. The victim dragged her body through this clearing and was later discovered by a cyclist.

When I asked if they’d ever seen girls get violent, most of the girls I interviewed laughed like I was the dumbest person they’d ever met.

“Didn’t you go to high school?” Eliza asked.

“In fourth grade, people were talking about this one girl behind her back,” Caroline told me. “At first she was really sad and just cried about it, but then she brought a bat to school and said she was going to kill everyone with it. She doesn’t go to our school any more. But I don’t think she was crazy, just sad.”

“Also the puberty stuff we mentioned,” MacKenzie reminded me.

“Yeah,” Caroline said. “Fourth grade was the beginning of that for the more developed girls.”

“At the beach one time these girls were punching each other,” said Letesha, another sophomore girl, over the phone. “The hitting sounded softer than I thought it would, but they were bleeding.”

Slides at David's Park, Waukesha

In a recent phone call, Geyser’s lawyer Anthony Cotton echoed the idea that 12 can be a troubling age. “Eleven-to-12-year-olds lack empathy,” he said. “They lack judgment.”

Jenny agreed. “At that age it’s difficult to put yourself in someone else’s shoes and be empathetic. I don’t remember what part of the brain... but it’s not fully developed yet until you’re, like, 20-something. So on one hand it’s like, what if [Weier and Geyser] grow into bigger monsters? On the other hand, it could just be a phase.”

When I asked whether the stabbings had come up in conversation with any of their peers, Jenny and the other teenage girls I interviewed all gave the same sort of negative response. People their age were afraid to say the wrong thing, they explained, and although they wanted to talk about it and were happy to talk to me, girls their age could be so mean about the weirdest things.

“It really only comes up during ghost stories,” MacKenzie said. “Like, we’ll be telling scary stories and someone will say, ‘Wanna hear a true one?’”

@HaleKathleen

Previously: Don't Blame Slender Man for the Schoolgirl Stabbing

The VICE Guide To Europe 2014: The VICE Guide to Copenhagen 2014

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Return to The VICE Guide to Europe 2014 homepage

(All photos by Sandra Vinge Jensen unless otherwise stated)

The Danish capital is great because you can get laid and stoned while eating a meat sandwich in a quasi-autonomous anarcho commune. If you don't like meat, weed, sex or anarchists then you have just stumbled onto the wrong website, friend. 

Jump to sections by using the index below:

WHERE TO PARTY
WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH DRUGS?
POLITICS, PROTESTS AND JUST HOW RACIST IS EVERYONE HERE?
WHERE TO EAT
WHAT DO LOCALS EAT?
WHERE TO DRINK
WHERE TO STAY
LGBT COPENHAGEN
WHERE TO HANG OUT WHEN YOU'RE SOBER
HOW TO AVOID GETTING RIPPED OFF AND BEATEN UP
HOW NOT TO BE A SHITTY TOURIST
PEOPLE AND PLACES TO AVOID
TIPPING AND HANDY PHRASES
A YOUTUBE PLAYLIST OF QUESTIONABLE LOCAL MUSIC
VICE CITY MAP

WHERE TO PARTY

An average Wednesday night out in Copenhagen ends at about six in the morning. A shitty Thursday night with crappy cranberry cocktails rolls into bed at around noon. A good Friday night – with mates, MDMA and one of the many deep house dens littered around the city – and you’ll be lucky if you’re not stumbling out of a “morning” party at 4PM on Sunday. If you want to rave, Copenhagen’s got you covered.

The line outside of Culture Box on a Saturday night never ceases. Rain, hail, sleet or snow, the deep house bros are posted outside drinking cheap beers and waiting to get the chance to spill drinks on the dancefloor with one of their idols. We say bros, because the ratio of men to women at Culture Box is almost always about 70-30. Apart from lots of coke Vikings, it draws some of the biggest names in deep house and techno, from Marcel Dettmann to Ben Klock, Jeff Mills, Richie Hawtin and other legends of the scene. The price of drinks and entrance is definitely more “exclusive club” than underground rave though, so don’t turn up empty-handed or sober.

Exile is a new club night that’s going to be responsible for a lot of messy sex but never, ever be anyone's chosen destination for a date. It happens monthly at Vesterbro and has played host to such names as Triky, J Tijn, Reeko and other people who have somehow forged a living out of nosebleed techno. As with many of the best places in Copenhagen, the bar at Exile nights mostly seems to make its money selling water and chewing gum.

If pissing outside your local bakery in the middle of the day while you listen to slightly more mainstream music and drink vodka out of a water bottle is more your style, get ready for Distortion, Copenhagen's most ridiculous street festival. Every year different neighbourhoods are sectioned off for all-day raves that only stop when everyone's ushered inside clubs to drink more and stop scaring children. Unbelievably, this is allowed to happen for five days in a row, and the day rave is always completely free. Pop, indie, hip-hop and techno fans will all find something for them at Distortion as they long as they're sober enough to find the right tent.

Look, there’s loads of shit going on in Copenhagen, and the people are nice and beautiful, so just get pissed or whatever and start making friends.

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(Photo by Esben Elborne)

WHAT'S THE DEAL WITH DRUGS?

Because Amsterdam is depressing as shit, Copenhagen is just about the best place in Europe to be a stoner. Christiania, an anarcho-hippy commune, is best described as a city within a city. Since the 1970s, when a gang of hippies squatted its old military facility, Christiania has been a weed marketplace with more than 50 shops (that's a conservative estimate) selling a broad selection of cannabis products from all over the world.

The police made an effort a couple of years back to crack down on Christiania's flagrant dopeheads, but it failed horribly, pushing hash dealers into the inner city and flaring up a proper gang war. So, for the most part, they leave Christiania alone now. All the hash stalls are still out, morning to night, their owners and customers living by the huge commune's topsy-turvy rules. Christiania is a place where people can have a beer outside and smoke up in the sun without being hassled by the cops. What you can’t do, though, is take pictures or run on the main street, both of which will get you in serious trouble.

The police don’t patrol Christiania, but they try to bust people once they've left, which is why visitors tend to leave on foot and avoid taking the Metro home. Elsewhere in the city, the cops are still pretty laidback about weed and the classic pusher-types tout hash in most Copenhagen parks. First-time offenders are fined €250 if they're bait enough to get nabbed by the filth.

In truth, beyond Christiania, drugs have been somewhat hard to come by lately after the police tapped a prominent dealer’s phone and busted hundreds of people in the process. They should have been busting people in the red light district, Istedgade, though. It's located just behind the central train station and as you might expect, it's a thoroughly nasty part of town full of pushers whose sketchiness has been known to extend to fucking people over and/or stabbing them up.

Anyone caught with MDMA or coke faces a fine of about €350, depending on how much they're holding. Compared to other countries though, the relationship with the cops is pretty relaxed and people only really get in trouble when they’re being overt about drug use, either in public or, typically, by filling a toilet cubicle with about 50 mates all hungry for lines.

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(Photo by Esben Elborne)

POLITICS, PROTESTS AND JUST HOW RACIST IS EVERYONE HERE?

Copenhagen is pretty well segregated when it comes to overzealous political factions. They’ve each carved out their own little corner of the map so they can act like nutters in peace.

There is a tiny minority of neo-Nazis in central Copenhagen. For the most part, these pricks are to be found hiding out in Sydhavn (the South harbour). They rarely rear their heads in the city, as they’d probably have the shit kicked out of them by the rest of us. To be honest though, hardly any immigrants are well treated by Danes here. Stereotypes abound about untrustworthy Eastern Europeans, despite the fact that many have been hired by tight Danes (i.e. all Danes) to do virtually any manual cash-in-hand job the native population deem to be beneath them. However, there are various public programmes set up to provide the few immigrants we do let in the chance to get started economically. As such, Denmark isn’t actually the worst place in the world to pitch your tent.

Nordvest (Northwest) is one of the city's most ethnically eclectic areas. Full of greengrocers, mosques and fast-food joints selling all sorts of unpronounceable fried foods, Nordvest is colourful, enticing and also a stronghold for Hizb ut-Tahrir, a radical Islamic group who would fucking love to bring Sharia law to the streets of the capital. The group, who are banned in Germany, aren't fond of democracy and encourage Muslims not to vote in any parliamentary elections.

Nordvest also plays host to Copenhagen’s biggest autonomous social centre. After the legendary squat Ungdomshuset was evicted in 2006, there were ongoing street battles between the cops and the kids, and, simply put, the kids tore up so much shit that they forced the city to offer the town’s anarchists a brand new HQ. We now know this as Dortheavej 61; a stronghold of spiked hair and vegan soup kitchens. Unsurprisingly, it’s also the hub of the city’s punk scene, hosting several gigs each month featuring bands with names like Sommerfuglebræk (Butterfly Puke) and Bestiality. They’re all sweethearts really. The house’s politics are of the far-left variety, and they live up to their egalitarian ideology with absurdly reasonable bar prices.

If you like your political decisions made by people who are under the influence of cannabis and wearing ponchos, look no further than Christiania. The commune is run on fully democratic lines by its inhabitants, known as Christianites. It’s extremely simple to find the commune – just exit the metro at Christianshavn and follow the sea of dreadlocks and bulldog-dragging thugs to Copenhagen’s very own hippie mecca.

(Photo by Esben Elborne)

Considering this is supposed to be the happiest city on earth, protests are quite common here. They’re usually quite polite though, which makes this type of moderate complaining a sort of national sport, complete with an abundance of teams. Recent competitors include: the squatters who wanted a new house, the students disgruntled by reform, the Brazilians who didn't want Brazil to host the World Cup, and of course the perennial posse of weed lovers fighting for legalisation.

The only stuff that gets the city properly riled up though is when far-right extremists demonstrate against building mosques in Denmark – supposedly to keep the city free from extremists. That's when the lefties get mad and the police briefly get to enjoy their riot gear.

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WHERE TO EAT

Kafa-X, Nørrebro
Look closely enough and you'll find a bunch of these kinds of "folk kitchens" around town. On a travelling budget they’re a gold mine; you can get a vegan dinner for a donation of €3. The staff members are all volunteers, and it tends to be full of foreigners and students, so there’s a good chance people will be chatting in English – handy, because the only two Danish words you know are “Lego” and “Duplo” and you’re not even totally certain that “Duplo” is Danish.
LINK

Madklubben Grill Royal, Kongens Nytorv
For €26, eat half a fucking cow.
LINK

Bror
Bror is the best place in Copenhagen to satisfy your cravings for cod heads, lumpfish sperm and bull’s testicles. Their beer selection is very affordable, not to mention stronger than rocket fuel. Dinner will set you back about €40, which is kind of normal for Copenhagen, but don't hold that against us. If your governments were run by responsible adults, you'd all be sat around burning money and eating sperm, too. 
LINK

Relæ, Nørrebo
Nørrebo basically used to be just an alleyway full of drug dealers, but thanks to the horrors of gentrification it has swapped all the seedy whispering men for an array of Michelin stars. In an objective sense, the food here is insanely good; Relæ has been ranked in the top 60 restaurants in the world and as such it’s a fucking pain to get a table, so obvs book ahead. Like two months ahead.
LINK

Foderbrættet, Vesterbro
Economists reckon the bottom’s going to fall out of Denmark’s affluent liberal pleasure palace soon. If it does, they can probably point to the day we opened a champagne and hotdog bar as the moment the country lost control. But whatever, come here, have three cocktails, two gourmet hotdogs, and toast the fact that one day Scandinavia will be as fucked as the rest of Europe.
LINK

Grød, Nørrebro
This might surprise you, but porridge is a big deal in Denmark, bigger even than football and music. Nowhere is this more true than at Grød. There are many, many different kinds of porridge to choose from here, including a lunch-dinner option of risotto porridge. It’s located on Jaegersborggade, which sounds like it means you should be able to get Jägerbomb porridge, but it definitely doesn’t mean that.
LINK

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WHAT DO LOCALS EAT?

Ribbensstegssandwich (Pork Rib Sandwich)
We eat a shitload of pork and we know what we’re doing with it. So, when you’re down at the hotdog stand, don’t be afraid to venture beyond the humble sausage. Try the pork rib roast sandwiches complete with crackling, pickles and red cabbage. Wash it all down with chocolate milk – it's fine to eat like a child here.

Stegt Flæsk (Roasted Pork Served with Crackling and Parsley Sauce)
Same deal as before: It’s basically bacon for grown-ups. We did warn you we fucking love pork.

Open-Faced Sandwiches

Rebelling against the top slice of bread on a sandwich may seem pointlessly contrarian, but it’s not. Two slices of bread is a silly extravagance and halves the actual flavour of a sandwich. Try an all-time Danish favourite like liver paste on rye bread, or go for the "Shooting Star", which involves caviar, salmon and shrimp and you’ll agree.

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WHERE TO DRINK

The Free Beer Club
In case the name didn't give it away, every single night, there will be some fashion, art, magazine, or music event that is handing out free booze to people. So how do you get in on it? Facebook, obviously. Find the free booze club page, and follow the trail of blaggers and idiots on its route through the city. Danes love it. Who wouldn't? It's free booze.
LINK

Mikropolis, Copenhagen K.
This bar is a welcome new addition to Copenhagen, and their speciality is cocktails made with beer. Although it’s marketed as a place to “tantalise your taste buds”, the fact they mix beer with strong spirits suggests that their main ambition is getting you absolutely shitfaced.
LINK

Vin Hanen, Nørrebro
This bar imports its wine directly from suppliers and stores it on the premises in 900-litre tanks. This allows them to do takeaway bottles of wine from €6, which is cheaper than what you would pay in the local supermarket. Plus, if you return the bottle you get a Euro back, so do try not to smash it over your head in a fit of drunken joy at how reasonably priced it was.
LINK

Floss, Copenhagen K
Unlike you and me, Europeans still believe in rock and roll. This place basically looks like what you thought bars were when you had posters on your wall: cheap beer, clouds of smoke, fat men with beards, punks, artists, writers – it’s heaven, basically.
LINK

Kayak Bar, Copenhagen K
A place for summer. It’s on the water under the bridge that takes you from the centre of the city to Christianshavn. As the name suggests, it’s actually a kayaking club/sauna/cafe by day, but by night it transforms into a Williamsburg-esque dungeon with live bands. I once saw someone fall in the river there and some hero saved them in a canoe.
LINK

Kødbyen
The fail-safe option when you want a good night out. This is the meatpacking district of Copenhagen and is scattered with bars occupying old slaughterhouses. If one place sucks, just move on to the next. Jolene, Bakken, Basement Bar and Maester og Laerling are a few of my favourite places to lose my memory while surrounded by old abattoirs.

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WHERE TO STAY

Central Hotel and Café
I know this great little place. It’s the world’s smallest hotel, and it’s located in Vesterbro on top of the world’s smallest café. It’s literally wedged in the narrow space between two buildings and only has one room, measuring a mere 2.4m by 3m, but for €200 per night you do get a double bed and a mini-bar. I imagine it’s quite hard to get a room there.

AirBnB
It’s clearly going to be regulated at some point soon and become shit, but before then Vesterbro, Nørrebro or Copenhagen K are the places to look if you want to sleep on a sofabed that's absorbed millions of strangers' farts.

Christiania
The anarcho-hippies are nice guys, so make mates and try and find yourself a bed for the night that hasn't already been claimed by someone's dog.

Don't Sleep
Or just go without sleep. The sun comes out at 3AM in summer anyway. Try and find a "morgen fest" (morning party) and join the straight-through crew. (Presumably you can only do that for about three days before you die, though.)

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(Photo by Mads Schmidt)

LGBT COPENHAGEN

Copenhagen is probably about as gay-friendly as capital cities come. Don’t get us wrong, venture out to the countryside and towns like Tønder (sadly not a Danish dating app), and you’ll get punched in the mouth just for having long hair or wearing tight jeans, let alone making out with your partner. By contrast, Copenhageners tend to be all about love for their fellow citizens. Denmark was the first country to legalise registered partnerships between homosexual couples and went on to legalise same-sex marriage in 2012.

Nowadays, it’s definitely not uncommon to find straight groups merrily partying and getting pissed at gay bars. Though some of the raunchier places have shut down, you can still visit the legendary Monday night amateur hour at Cafe Intime on Frederiksberg, or check out drag shows at the pop-up bar Star Factory near the recently renamed Rainbow Square.

In particular, there’s an abundance of gay drinking dens around city hall, some of which have been quenching the thirst of the LGBT community for over 40 years. You can even go sauna-clubbing just a couple of blocks off the busiest shopping street in the country. Hizb ut-Tahrir probably don't like it but until their dreams of stoic, bigoted joylessness come true, it's a blast.

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WHERE TO HANG OUT WHEN YOU'RE SOBER

Parks
Okay, it’s not revolutionary, but go and drink in a park, we’ve got loads of them. The good ones are Nørrebroparken, Kongens Have and Enghave Parken. They’ve got all that good park stuff; like grass and trees and people in bikini tops.

Beaches
During summer, the temperature rises to about 25 degrees. Danes, euphoric for having survived yet another winter, storm to the beaches where we all get sunburnt and one drunk person always drowns. So, basically like England, but everyone's closer to the water, richer and more attractive.

Dronning Louises Bro
It’s a bridge, bro. From June to September it’s packed with young people drinking beers and soaking up the sun.

The Canals
They’re canals. They’re pretty. Go and get a beer and look at the pretty canals.

Bispebjerg Sex Clinic
Everyone’s going to have sex with you in Copenhagen, which is great. But there's a chance they might make your genitals unwell, at which point, you should go to this STD clinic. Free for all, no appointment required. Located at Bispebjerg Hospital in Copenhagen NV. Or just use a condom, which you can also get from the Bispebjerg clinic.

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HOW TO AVOID GETTING RIPPED OFF AND BEATEN UP

As a tourist, you should feel pretty welcome. Copenhagen is a very safe city. Like all the safest cities, the most common crime is bike theft, so unless you've brought your bike with you on the plane there's not much to worry about. Should a situation emerge where you need to call the police, dial 112. They're almost guaranteed to speak English and they're almost guaranteed to be surprised if your call is not at least partially related to some form of bike crime.

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HOW NOT TO BE A SHITTY TOURIST

Everyone has a bike here – it’s very flat and we’re trendy, healthy Scandos, so we’re obsessed with them. Please, join in and rent a bike. BUT cycling in Copenhagen is not a novel form of sightseeing, it's a real means of commuting and as a tourist you need to respect that. Ride fast, never ever stop, only use the outside lane for overtaking (which you won’t do), and apologise constantly.

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PEOPLE AND PLACES TO AVOID

Guys with Boom Boxes Attached to Their Bicycles
These guys cruise the streets with no evident purpose beyond blaring obnoxious music. And because they’re Danish, you won’t like their music.

Bottle Collectors
Copenhagen, being the green city that it is, promotes the recycling of plastic and glass by putting quite a high deposit on the return of each bottle. Which is great! Except that it’s created an over-zealous load of bottle collectors who’ll snatch them out of your hands, even if it’s still half full. As far as evils wrought by global warming go, they're up their with dead baby polar bears and the Beijing smog.

The Little Mermaid
Copenhagen's major landmark is a severe let-down. Unless you're really into battling through busloads of ancient tourists to take a picture of a small shit statue of a mermaid, go eat some pork instead.

Strøget
The Scandinavian Oxford Street. The spiritual home of shit jeans.

Tivoli
The world’s oldest amusement park is actually a really nice place to hang out. Unfortunately, every single tourist coming to Denmark already knows this, so it’s best to give the place a wide berth in summer unless your idea of a great trip is queues, crushes and children.
 
The Red Light District
I'm sure I don't have to explain to you why sleeping with a hooker is a bad idea for everyone involved.

Cheap Party Bars
Sam's Bar, Billy Booze and Den Glade Gris – who’d have thought places with such cool names would suck? Well they do. They’re the absolute worst of the worst.

Nyhavn
What was once the landing spot for hooker-hungry sailors is now densely populated by scum-of-the-earth tourist guides showing fanny-pack foreigners the best of Denmark’s wide selection of grotty strip clubs.

Pretty Much All of Amager
Known by Danes as “Shit Island”, Amager’s vast undeveloped areas are only an attraction if you’re hoping to turn up as the inspiration for a victim in the next series of The Killing

Torvehallerne
The indoor market that combines New Nordic pretentiousness with the intimacy of a public swimming pool. Steer clear unless you really, really need Israeli gourmet olives. 

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TIPPING AND HANDY PHRASES

Tipping
In Denmark, the service charge is always included in the price. This means waiters get paid a fair salary, and don’t rely on your spare change to survive the winter or anything. Also, if they ask you directly whether you want to add a tip to the bill, you can tell them to fuck off without having to feel bad. The same goes for cab drivers. If you do feel like the service has been otherworldly, an extra 10 to 15 percent will do just fine. Leave anything more and you’re just being a flash Harry. As for bartenders and cafe personnel, they’ll think you're weird if you try to tip them personally, so leave something in the tip jar if you’re so inclined. 

Handy Phrases
"Please" is a bit tricky in that Danes don’t really have that word, because we're rude cunts. You can, however, add a “tak” (thank you) to the end of your request if you're feeling awkward.

As for insults, you might be met by a casual “Din fucking luder” if you offend the spray-tanned crowd. This eloquently translates to something like "you fucking slut".

“Kan jeg få en øl?” means "Can I get a beer?" Don’t be intimidated by the weird letters, though. The å sounds a bit like the oh in “oh ma gawd” and the ø is pronounced like a very long fart sound – you'll feel silly saying it, but trust us.

In case you need to give that special someone an extra little nod in the right direction, try shouting, “Kys mig, for fanden.” It translates to something like: "Kiss me, for fuck’s sake."

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A YOUTUBE PLAYLIST OF QUESTIONABLE LOCAL MUSIC

Here's some music you might have to listen to in bars around town. It's probably best to get acclimatised so you don't get all sadface when you go out for the first time.

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VICE CITY MAP

Well, there you go. When you get here, we'll be the ones shouting at you to get the fuck out of the bike lane.

Lots of love,

– VICE Denmark  

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Return to The VICE Guide to Europe 2014 homepage

The Highs and Lows of Breaking Your Bones

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People break bones every day. In the US, 6.8 million people break a bone each year; while in Sweden (where I'm from) 11 people break a bone every hour. I recently became one of those lucky 11 when I fell over and broke my foot – which sucked, because smashing a body part to pieces and quickly becoming immobile is both sore and very inconvenient.  

However, there are upsides to destroying your metatarsals. Morphine, for example. Or crutches, which instantly give you carte blanche to do basically whatever you want; turn up late for meetings, skip the queues at Tivoli or have your friends and colleagues fetch you warm towels and feed you wine. 

Forty percent of you will end up with a broken bone at some point in your life. So I thought I'd help you prepare for this exciting time by sharing some of the ups and downs I've experienced since being forced to take up crutches, because, having broken my foot, I have absolutely nothing better to do.

CRUTCHES

 Walking with crutches is great. Your arms get stronger, plus you can accessorise your new sticks with stencils, charms, stickers and / or flecks of your own blood. They're also an ideal conversation starter at parties, but be wary of handing them over to people to have a go on; you do actually need them to stay upright, and once one person's had a crack, every dickhead there is going to want their turn. 

What's more, your hands are already full when you walk, meaning you don't have to smoke or stare at your phone to avoid looking like the Tin Man (arms awkwardly stuck to your sides, the rest of your body rigid in the fear that you're walking really weirdly) while going about your daily business. Consider this rehab for your ailing self-esteem.

BLOOD-THINNERS

 Sticking needles into your own body sucks. It's one reason I never understood heroin's appeal. But wearing a cast and generally not moving around very much can give you blood clots, which suck even more, in that they can lead to deep vein thrombosis and, if you're really unlucky, death. To avoid death, it's common practice to take a "blood-thinning" shot in the stomach every evening – a low-molecular-weight-heparin that makes you tired, sensitive and more prone to bruising. 

Mind you, I'll repeat my point again here: being grumpy is much more preferable to dying because you couldn't deal with a little prick once a day.

KIDS

 Kids are assholes. They don't pay any attention to anything that doesn't involve them and they shouldn't be allowed to move freely around cities. Whoever invented the child harness is a saint. Fuck them and their tiny paws knocking over my crutches.

 

OLD PEOPLE

 These guys are your new best friends. You know that bit in Curb where Larry lets the audience in on the secrets of the bald community? The same rules apply to anyone with decreased mobility; sympathetic head nods on public transport, lots of conversations with strangers on zimmer frames and plenty of unprompted tips from pensioners on how to make life slightly easier – like peeing on plants instead of going back and forth with a watering can, or guilt-tripping others into doing your grocery shopping for you.

Photo by Y+M

COMMUTERS

 Walking around on crutches is fine on the weekends because weekend people are generally pretty chill; they'll help you out and let you on and off the bus before them. However, getting from A to B in peak hours during the week is a fucking nightmare. I know this because until about three weeks ago I was just like that self-absorbed dickhead who stomped on my foot to make sure he got through the tube doors and secured a seat before anyone else. 

CONVERSATIONS

 There is literally no better way for someone to break an awkward silence than asking you, "Why are you in a cast?" Plus, if you don't like that person and want to make sure they hurry out of your personal space as promptly as possible, just make up a really boring explanation and they'll inevitably wander off to talk to someone about the weather or stand alone in the corner of the club until the lights come up.

CRUTCH AND CAST FETISH

  Take this opportunity to make some extra cash by modelling for a cast and sprain fetish website. Who knows – a broken bone might signal the start of an exciting, sexy new future.

@caisasoze

More stuff about injuries:

I Lost My Finger At a Rave

My Friend's Toe Is Falling Off 

This Schoolkid Made an App That Exposes Sellout Politicians

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The Greenhouse app highlighting how much money each industry gave Republican Congressman Mike Simpson before the last election

With US politics swimming in so much corporate money that it's pretty much an oligarchy, it can be hard to keep track of which particular set of lobbyists is trying to milk more cash out of healthcare, fossil fuels and other very important issues from one week to the next.

But thanks to 16-year-old Nick Rubin, keeping track of just how much politicians have sold out has become a lot easier. He created Greenhouse, a new browser plugin which operates under the motto, "Some are red. Some are blue. All are green." The plugin aims "to shine light on a social and industrial disease of today: the undue influence of money in our Congress". It sounds like a bit of a lofty aim for an app, but it's actually pretty simple and effective – it provides a break down of a politician’s campaign contributions when that politician's name comes up in an article. It is currently available for Chrome, Firefox and Safari and is completely free. As you can imagine, reading about how your Member of Congress voted in a recent health bill becomes all the more enlightening if you know how much money the health industry showered him in at the last election.

I spoke to Nick Rubin about the plugin, politics and what he calls the "money stories" behind what you read in the news.

VICE: Hi Nick. So how did you come up with the idea for Greenhouse?
Nick Rubin: Back in seventh grade, I gave a presentation on corporate personhood and ever since then I’ve been really interested in that issue. I think the one problem is that the sources of income for members of congress haven’t been simple and easily accessible when people have needed it. More recently, I’ve been teaching myself how to code and I thought that something like Greenhouse that puts the data at people’s fingertips would be a perfect solution. It really is the intersection of these two passions of mine – coding and politics. I made it after school and on weekends on my computer.

Why the name?
Well, green is the colour of money in the US, and house refers to the two houses of Congress [the Senate and House of Representatives]. The name also implies transparency; greenhouses are see through and they are built to help things thrive.

Where did you get the information on the politician’s donations?
It uses the data from the last full election cycle which was 2012. This is simply because it’s just the most complete set of data that we have. But, the browser does provide access to the most up to date 2014 information by just clicking the name of the politician on the top of the window or the OpenSecrets.org link in the popup. So the 2014 data is just one click away.

I’m intending to update the data as a whole later in the election cycle as the 2014 contributions are more complete. These are updates I’m currently working on, as well as thinking of other ways I can expand the tool.

Nick Rubin

What are your political views and how are they relevant to the tool?
I want a system that works and so do other kids my age. I want Greenhouse to be a non-partisan tool. What concerns me is the sheer amount of money being pumped into the system because there really is a lot. During the development of Greenhouse and looking over these numbers and seeing how much is being donated – it’s really scary.

How does Greenhouse work?
It works by highlighting the name of any member of Congress on any website and when you hover over these names a little box appears which shows detailed contribution information with amounts and where those amounts have come from. It’s basically a list of the top 10 industries from which they receive their money. My goal was to create something that promotes transparency. It would be great if people used it on sites where they’re reading about politics everyday. For example, if you’re reading a piece on Congress votes for energy policy, you might see that a sponsor has received hundreds of thousands of dollars from the oil and gas industry. I like to say that Greenhouse allows people to see the money story behind the news story.

What money stories have you personally uncovered?
I’ve noticed a lot of trends. I’ve been working on something called the “Story of the Day”, which is me tweeting everyday a story where if people used Greenhouse on the story they’d learn something very interesting and see the money story for themselves. These stories are all over. People who use it will be able to form their own opinions about the possible influences of money in politics. 

What do you hope from Greenhouse?
I just want it to educate people because that’s really the first step toward a solution. That’s exactly why I designed Greenhouse with simplicity in mind so that everyone – even kids – are able to understand it. In terms of whether Greenhouse will solve this issue – well, education is the first step. I really do believe that increased transparency will help fix the problem. Easy access to data empowers voters to make better decisions. Once people are informed, they will reject elected officials who are motived by money instead of principles. But for now, I’ll leave the solution to others.

What are you going to do next?
At the moment, Greenhouse is my focus and I want to keep it fully updated and keep improving. One aim of mine has come out of the phenomenal response I’ve had from people that have downloaded the browser. People have got in contact asking to work with me to make versions of the tool for them. This is absolutely something I want to do.

So could you make a Greenhouse app for the UK?
The first thing would be finding a reliable data source. But sure, why not?

Cool. Thanks, Nick.

@hannahrosewens

This Italian Priest Has Spent 20 Years Getting on the Mafia's Tits

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Don Luigi Ciotti (Screen shot via)

In Italy, publicly bad-mouthing the Mafia is the dry-land equivalent of punching a shark in the gills. They don’t like it one bit, which is pretty evident in the long history they have of executing anyone – be they priests or politicians – who dares criticise them.

You may have noticed that Pope Francis has recently taken it upon himself to become one of those critics; last month he excommunicated Mafiosi from the Catholic church, which must have hit a nerve. The Mafia have traditionally loved Mary as much as they love money, and anecdotal evidence suggests some capos even sprinkle holy water over packets of cocaine in the hope that it doesn’t kill anyone.

Don Luigi Ciotti, a 68-year-old priest from Turin, has been hassling the mob for 20 years. In 1995 he founded Libera, an organisation that uses land and assets seized from the Mafia to set up local food co-operatives, anti-drug projects and community centres, as well as seeking to provide employment for those sidelined by La Cosa Nostra.

I gave Don Ciotti a call to talk about his work and the Mafia’s role in modern Italy.

A Libera protest (All photos below courtesy of Libera)

VICE: Why did you start campaigning against the mafia?
Don Luigi Ciotti: The impulse came from a season of Mafia massacres and bombings [in the early 1990s], in which two key anti-Mafia campaigners – Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino – were killed, alongside many others.

You don't hear about the Mafia as often as you used to. How do they remain such a threat to Italian society? 
The Mafia isn't just a criminal organisation – it has more impact than that, and its roots go deep. It is a mentality. It is about ruthless individualism, selfishness, indifference and the theft of the common good. The Mafia is a social and cultural evil that causes injustice, abuse of power and corruption. So arresting and prosecuting the Mafia is not enough; we need to weed the Mafia mentality out of our communities.

Most Mafia members are Catholic – how do they square murder, extortion and all the other stuff they get up to with their faith?
The Mafia exploits God. The religiousness of the Mafia is the opposite of the gospel. It is a form of superstition and a way of appearing respectable in the eyes of others. Worshipping God is not only about faith, but the way people behave. Rosario Livatino, a young Catholic magistrate killed by the Mafia in 1990, wrote in his diary: “At the end we will not be asked if we were believers, but if we were credible.”

Among its other activities, Libera sells and grows Mafia-free products. How likely is it that the Italian food we buy in Britain has Mafia links?
This is a complex issue. However, there are two aspects to highlight. Because of the large profits available in the food industry, it has become a land of conquest for organised crime – mainly fraud, adulteration and counterfeiting. Checks – which, fortunately, are strict in our country – reveal that some of the Made ​​in Italy products are not made here. They are produced elsewhere, with inferior raw materials and at lower manufacturing costs. It's an illicit market that causes serious damage to honest farmers and entrepreneurs.

The second aspect is the presence of the Mafia in the restaurant industry. Half of the 160 companies recently shut down by police in the Lazio region, for example, are restaurants, hotels and bars used by the Mafia for money laundering.

A Libera vineyard

And then Libera turns some of these seized premises into Mafia-free businesses, right? Can you give me some examples?
There's the story of the Café de Paris on Via Veneto in Rome, which was made famous by Fellini’s classic film La Dolce Vita. Its owner had links to the 'Ndrangheta, the Calabrian mafia. It was shut down by the police and, in 2009, reopened – with the help of Libera – as a restaurant serving wine and food produced on land confiscated from the Mafia. However, in February it was destroyed in an arson attack.

In Turin, Bar Italia on Via Veglia – where members of the local Calabrian mafia gathered to plan their business – was confiscated and given to a project linked to Libera, which re-opened it under the name Bar Italia Libera. These are small but important steps. They are signs that through shared responsibility – the joint effort of the judiciary, police forces, government, entrepreneurs and citizens – it is possible to reaffirm the principle of legality – the force of law instead of the law of force.

Have Libera staff ever been threatened or attacked by the Mafia?
There have been several incidents of vandalism, arson or damage to agricultural equipment on land confiscated from the Mafia. Luckily, assaults directed at people are rarer. However, the message from the Mafia is still clear: what is no longer cosa nostra [our thing] cannot be yours or anyone else's.

There have been several anti-Mafia priests executed by mobsters for speaking out against them. Unsurprisingly, you use an armed guard. Have you personally been threatened by the mob?
For sure. The Mafia doesn't stand watching while we interfere. Don Pino Puglisi, who was killed in Palermo in 1993, was considered by the Mafia to be a priest who "interfered", and the same was said about Don Peppe Diana, who was killed by the Camorra in Casal di Principe in 1994.

I believe that the Church should pursue interference – that is, not being silent in the face of injustice and violence, being always on the side of the weak, the oppressed, the victims. We can not expect justice only from heaven – we must begin to build it on this earth. This involves combining the spiritual dimension with social and civil commitment.

A Libera farm on ex-Mafia land

I heard you say in a speech earlier this year that the Mafia commits "violence with white gloves". How embedded are Mafia members in business and politics in Italy nowadays? Have things improved since the endless political corruption scandals of the 1990s?
It's hard to admit, but the situation hasn't improved. There's still a serious corruption problem, even after the so-called "Clean Hands" investigations during the 90s, which led to many of the major political parties disappearing altogether. The recent corruption cases around Expo Milan and Venice Mose [the engineering work being carried out to protect Venice from flooding] – not to mention the bribery trial of a former prime minister – are all proof corruption as a whole is still present.

When I say “violence in white gloves”, I don't mean the Mafia has become more lenient or that it faces any qualms of conscience. I mean the Mafia uses its economic power – enabled by financial markets that allow too many grey areas and too many tax havens – to strangle people, not physically, but in terms of their livelihoods. As the number of dead bodies diminishes, the number of living dead grows. There are many people in Italy who have had their job, hope and dignity removed by the Mafia.

What can Italians – and anyone else whose life is governed by gangsters – do about this?
A raised awareness of the Mafia should be nourished, beyond the often misleading, folkloristic representation of the Mafia in the media. Above all, this awareness could result in more courageous political measures against the Mafia, and a greater accountability. A democracy is not only based on compliance with the law, but on the willingness of each of us to strive for the common good. Ethics come before the law.

Libera members

What's more important to the Mafia – God or money?
The Mafia worships one faith: money. To them, God is money. Money is, in the end, the Mafia’s reason for being. This also explains why Mafia organisations are so powerful in an economic system that sees money as the unit of measurement to assess not only material objects, but also people.

To defeat Mafia organisations – and all forms of corruption and illegality related to them – it will take a substantial cultural revolution. We need to attribute value to the dignity of the person, a dignity that lies in being, not in having.

Thanks, Don Ciotti.

@Narcomania

Mo' mo' Mafia:

Activists Are Trying to Save the World's Fish from Mafia Bastards

Carnival Day in Naples' Mafia-Run Slums

Making Friends at the World's Hottest Goth Party

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The Wave-Gotik-Treffen festival in Leipzig has been the world's hottest Goth party for the past 23 years. This time around, between the 6th and 9th of June, the little German town was invaded by over 20,000 steam-punks, metalheads and nerd-Goths of all ages and nationalities.

About 250 bands played Wave-Gotik-Treffen's stages this year, including Christian Death, UK Decay, Oomph!, Satyricon Beastmilk, Motorama, The Soft Moon, Vatican Shadow and Vitalic. Among the other attractions are the Museum of Medieval Torture, another museum dedicated to HR Giger as well as a Medieval fair.

Last month I travelled to Leipzig for the festival. Here are some photos of the friends I made.

See more of Cyril's work here.


Booze and Blow-Up Cocks: Blackpool Stag and Hen Nights in Pictures

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Being naked and cling-filmed to a lamppost is probably every man's idea of hell – except when that man is on a stag weekend in Blackpool, UK, I guess. Glaswegian photographer Dougie Wallace spent the past three years taking advantage of the lowered inhibitions that come with that "last day of freedom". Having travelled to and from Blackpool about thirty times, he's shot the town's stags and hens in various states of undress and drunkenness; revelling in bars, puking in the street, refuelling at chip shops.

Initially Dougie posted the images on Facebook but as friends of friends got to sharing them, the project took on its own momentum. Now it’s being published as a book called Stags, Hens and Bunnies.

I caught up with Dougie to talk Blackpool, booze and blow-up cocks.

VICE: When did the Blackpool stag and hen industry become such a big deal?
Dougie Wallace: I lived in Blackpool in the 1980s and I used to go out there with a football club from Glasgow. There weren’t many stag and hen dos happening then, but it was still pretty mental. It was a place to get wasted at weekends.

You know, 'hen' parties didn't assume their modern form until the Sexual Revolution of the 1960s. Now everything's been turned into an excuse to get drunk.

Does that bother you? In the intro to your book you say: "Blackpool deserves better than to stagger into the sea with an inflatable cock."
I think it can be compared to how people talk about Shoreditch these days. It was great once upon a time, when there were only a couple of bars, and it’s great now too. It wouldn’t have been that great now if it had just stayed as it was – it would have been boring. Change is a good thing. Also, it’s not like it's a stag and hen convention. You can walk about for hours before seeing one.

Where are those hen and stag groups from?
There are a lot of Scottish, Northern Irish and Welsh people but not so many Londoners. I think Blackpool is a little wild for southerners.

Who were the rowdiest stags or hens you met in Blackpool?
There's a photo of a nurse crowdsurfing – that's a pretty good group. They were all dressed as nurses. Dirty Dancing was playing on the screen behind her and she looks like her tits are about to fall out. She looks a bit like Tracey Emin, actually.

Does anyone actually misbehave?
Not really. There’s lots of drinking but not much sex. There’s this idea that it’s "one last night of freedom" but by the time they’ve got drunk, it’s all over. The girls go back in groups and the boys go back too. Their dads are there, their uncles, their bosses, somebody from the other side of the family. I'd get into more trouble photographing a group of boys in Manchester.

A couple of people in your photos look pissed off. Have you ever had people react badly to your pointing and shooting?
There’s the Bridezilla one – but she wasn’t pointing at me, it just looks like that. She was actually having a laugh, she was Scottish, you see. She’s probably just saying, "Who’s going in the taxi first?" But there’s one woman in a taxi wearing a rock and roll skirt, who’s having a wee tantrum.

The thing is, you’re playing with people’s boundaries. I always say, if you walked down Oxford Street handing out a tenner to everybody, someone would go, "Who do you think you are, do you think I’m poor?" Since Heat magazine was launched, everybody’s versed in what a model release form is and they all think they’re media lawyers now. So you get a bit of that too.

Does all the booze make your job easier or more difficult?
It can go either way. I’ve had groups of girls before where they kind of commandeer you, like you’re their official photographer for the night. If they get right drunk, they can get aggressive. But it's not really predictable. You’ve just got to use your intuition, check people's body language and not go near someone if they look like a bit of a nutter. But at the same you can’t be too scared. I’ve never been punched or anything.

Have you ever organised a stag do yourself?
No.

Where would you like to go if you did?
Blackpool would be good. Or maybe somewhere a bit warmer.

Thanks Dougie.

@rachsh

You can see the rest of the series on Dougie’s website.

Stags, Hens and Bunnies will be published on the 17th of July by Dewi Lewis Media.

More recent interviews with photographers:

Bob Mazzer's Photos Immortalise London's Underground

The Magnificent Graves of Georgian Mafiosos

Tom Bianchi Photographed His Gay Paradise Before it Dissapeared Forever

How Toldi Tamás Saved His Town from Environmental Catastrophe

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Photo by Sean Williams

On the top floor of a grand old building that used to house the Devecser post office, there’s a museum devoted to the worst environmental disaster in Hungarian history. Hardly anyone ever visits the place, the lights are usually off and there’s no heat, but one cold December morning I strolled among its dusty glass cases with Toldi Tamás, Devecser’s mayor. Inside the cases are the sorts of things you’d find in someone’s house – a VCR, a Bible, teddy bears. All of the items are caked in the carmine residue of a weird wave of sludge that in 2010 killed ten people, injured 150, and left hundreds in the region homeless.

Tamás paused to examine some blown-up press clippings on the wall from publications like Le Monde, the New York Times and the Guardian. During the hectic days of the crisis, he told me, journalists would flank him as he walked up the steps of the hall while taking calls from his frightened constituents, some of whom had burn marks the size of dinner plates after coming into contact with the sludge.

We went up to the roof and took in the view: On one side we could see the elegant town of about 5,000, where baroque halls daubed blue, yellow and pink sat beside drab Soviet-era apartment blocks along winding cobbled streets. Beyond the old buildings were the 87 new eggshell-coloured houses that Tamás had ordered built from scratch in just eight months. Looking the other way, we could see a vast park where dozens of homes used to stand before the red sludge came. Some were wiped away by the flood; others were so badly damaged that they had to be bulldozed in the days following the disaster. The devastation, now consigned to memory save for the odd patch of rose-tinted soil, occurred in a single day. It also happened to be Tamás’s first official day on the job. He woke up that morning to find himself mayor of a city where people were drowning beneath 60 centimetres of polluted water that was rapidly flowing through the streets.

Tamás doesn’t seem like the kind of man who saved an entire town. With his thin, grey hair, waxed jacket, billowing scarf  and Chevron mustache, the 62-year-old resembles a cross between a rural party apparatchik and a geography teacher. Hungarians of his generation lived through a Communist regime where stray words could have serious consequences, which may at least partially explain his taciturn nature. Even while touring the museum that serves as a monument to his greatest accomplishment, the idea of heroism is completely lost on him. “You just do your duty,” he said of that time as we walked down the stairs. “It was madness here. I wanted it to be happy again, calm.”

The aftermath of the flood of toxic red sludge that hit Devecser, Hungary, on the 5th of October 2010, after a reservoir owned by an aluminum plant burst. Photo by Tomas Benedikovic/isifa/Getty Images

Devecser, located a two-hour drive from Hungary’s capital of Budapest, has long been an important strategic point, and it has been conquered over and over by a succession of empires. The Ottomans tried and failed to raze it seven times in the 16th century. It became a sleepy fiefdom under the heel of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. During World War II, it was controlled by the Nazis before being overtaken by the Red Army.

Tamás was born under Soviet rule, in 1952, to a farmer father and a mother who worked at a meat factory. Devecser was a “great, fun place to grow up”, he told me, even though it was in the midst of an industrial tumult. Ajka, a nearby city of 30,000, was booming: Trees were being torn down, and giant prefab apartment blocks “grew from the ground like mushrooms”. The city was soon home to power plants and an aluminum factory that produced so much filthy red waste, from the bauxite-to-aluminum process, that in the 60s a giant reservoir had to be built just outside town to contain the toxic runoff (the stuff was so alkaline that it could cause skin burns on contact).

Meanwhile, Devecser “was left to the old people”, Tamás told me. “Houses were dilapidated, and there were no real prospects.” For fun, the townspeople would sit around a wireless and listen to Radio Free Europe – a welcome alternative to the crude propaganda pumped out daily by Hungary’s Soviet-backed politburo. “We were isolated and had to listen to a lot of crap,” Tamás said.

Tamás followed in his father’s footsteps and in the 60s, after attending college, joined a local state-owned agricultural firm. In the 80s, he was drafted into the Hungarian army for a stint in which 100 men were placed under his command. Rations were tight, and there was little to do; the men staved off “hard-worn boredom” by spending hours watching state-run television broadcasts. In the afternoons, when the officers left the barracks, they would climb to the top of the roof and reposition the TV antenna toward Austria. It was one of the few ways they could learn about life beyond the Iron Curtain.

The Berlin Wall fell in 1989, and Hungary began to embrace capitalism. Tamás, by then an agricultural commissioner trading cattle with the West, bought a plot of land and established his own farm, which became wildly successful. In 1995, Ajka’s aluminum plant was privatised under Magyar Aluminium (MAL). It regularly inspected the reservoir, which was slowly filling up with red mud – after the disaster, a spokesman for the company would tell the media that the last appraisal of the facility showed “nothing untoward”.

Eventually Tamás ran for mayor. To hear him tell it, he was persuaded to enter the race by friends who were upset that the last two Devecser mayors had been Communists from other towns. Tamás, a local kid who had managed to garner the respect of the community, was temperamentally and politically conservative – in other words, the ideal candidate.

The race against incumbent László Holczinger was a close one: Voting ended at 6 PM on the 3rd of October 2010, but Tamás didn’t find out he’d won until after midnight. Congratulatory toasts were made as the victory party carried over into daylight. Just hours later, the sludge came and washed the town away.

A dog covered in toxic sludge. Photo by Tomas Benedikovic/isifa/Getty Images

T4th of October, 2010, was an uncommonly bright Monday for autumn. Having celebrated until the wee hours, Tamás slept in until 10 AM. His wife, Irma, had already left to teach her maths class up the street, but he still had plenty of time to clean himself up before his 2 PM inauguration at town hall.

He never made it. A little after midday, Tamás was overwhelmed by phone calls. His voicemail was full of messages from virtually everyone he knew, all of them frantic about some sort of flood. It was then that he first looked out the window: A tidal wave of rust-coloured slime was rushing down the street, taking cars, furniture and people with it. As the slurry ripped through downtown, residents caught in the river were gasping for air. Cries rang out from people clinging to anything they could get their hands on. The dam keeping the red mud in MAL’s reservoir had burst, and a million cubic meters of hazardous waste was spilling out into the surrounding towns and villages. Devecser was among the hardest hit, and Tamás suddenly had a crisis of immense proportions on his hands.

“It was a busy first day,” he told me.

The townspeople had had no warning before the river of what looked like blood surged through Devecser. Homes were filled with foul ooze or wrecked by the force of the flood. People were forced to climb onto their roofs. Pets, vehicles and even children were washed away by the red mud – Angyalka Juhász, a toddler from the nearby village of Kolontár, drowned when the sludge smashed through the walls of her house and ripped her away from her mother, Erzsebét.

“Our family is cursed,” Erzsebét told Bulgarian journalist Dimiter Kenarov. She had already lost one young son when he was hit by a train, and now her entire family was covered in huge alkali burns from exposure to the mud. Hundreds of her neighbours were suffering the same painful sores.

The messages Tamás was receiving on his phone were getting grimmer by the minute. “There was a huge panic,” he told me. “People didn’t know what to do. They were running all around like poisoned mice. There was a chaos of communication.”

Tamás quickly sprang into action: After calling Irma to advise her to stay at school, on higher ground, with the kids, he rang up old friends from the farming business who owned heavy machinery – tractors, diggers, dozers – that could be used to pull people from danger.

“I asked them to go rescue people from their windows and rooftops,” he told me. His own house was being pummeled by the mud as he made his calls, but it survived, unlike the homes around it, thanks to its six-inch concrete foundation.

Within hours the cameras from international news stations showed up and introduced the world to Devecser. At the same time, MAL was going on a PR offensive to claim that the red mud wasn’t dangerous. “It’s an innocuous material,” CEO Zoltán Bakonyi told one reporter. (He later apologised for the comment.) Even if that were true – which it wasn’t – it would have provided scant comfort for those who had lost their homes or worse.

Anyone who had been affected by the flood knew that the substance that had flowed through the streets was anything but innocuous. People who had waded through the red mud started getting painful burns on their legs and arms, sores that took a long time to heal. Peter Pallinki, a butcher from Ajka, had climbed onto his roof when the mud slammed into his living room, and a year afterward he was still nursing the gaping wounds on his knee that had put him out of work. “Painkillers are my breakfast now,” he told Kenarov.

For three nights after the flood Tamás barely slept; at one point he stayed up for 24 hours straight. He was kept busy coordinating with officials in neighbouring towns to provide refuge for the hundreds who were displaced. While he worked, he answered constant phone calls and dealt with reporters throwing microphones in his face wherever he went. The town, which had been under his leadership for less than a week, was caked in poisonous red mud, and the relatives of people who were dying in the hospital from God-knows-what wanted to know how, in the 21st century, no one could figure out that a concrete wall had been about to break. Tamás didn’t know what to tell them. He was tired, angry and inundated with too many requests to handle. Irma worried about his health but made sure to keep calm around him.

“Without her,” he told me, “I could not bear anything.”

Tamás got a second phone for calls from the press, and it rang day and night. The Hungarian government sent in more than 500 policemen and soldiers to maintain control of the village, direct traffic and prepare to evict people from damaged homes (in the end, all the townsfolk left their houses peacefully). A pontoon bridge was thrown across Kolontár’s Marcal River to replace a bridge that had collapsed in the slide. Plaster and other chemicals were poured into the river to stem the tide, extinguishing its ecosystem overnight.

Devecser looked like a postapocalyptic version of Stepford. As the days passed and the mud dried, it blew into the air and enveloped Devecser in a scarlet sandstorm. People began to have trouble breathing. Tamás waded through the mud, coordinating every aspect of the cleanup and rebuilding process. Sometimes he’d forget which phone was which – reporters were told about the post office, and locals got information about the blueprints that were being sketched for a new housing project across town. He soon slipped into a pattern of sleeping from 11 PM to 2 AM, which lasted a year. He had no choice – quitting wasn’t an option. “I never really seriously thought of giving up and turning my back on anyone,” Tamás said.

Within weeks of the disaster, Tamás, working with famed architect Imre Makovecz, had drawn up plans for 87 new homes for those still without houses. They would be completed within eight months, using nothing but local materials. Some people who lived in damaged houses that had survived the initial flood weren’t sure the new homes would be constructed and chose to stay. Three years later, Tamás told me, they’re angry with him and bitter that they’re stuck in their red-mud-stained homes. “They didn’t believe I could do it,” Tamás said. “That’s tough luck. But I have to make tough decisions.” Today, when the mayor sees some of those people in the street, they won’t make eye contact with him.

He had a lot of latitude to make those decisions – Viktor Orbán, Hungary’s populist prime minister, told Tamás to knock down anything that had been damaged and replace it. Budapest auctioned off 230 Communist-era relics, including more than a dozen portraits of Lenin, to help fund disaster relief, and the government eventually provided $190 million (£113 million) in aid. The region also received $9.6 million (£5.7 million) from private donors.

Among the demolished buildings had been a crumbling old cinema that the locals had been complaining about for years. “People had been asking for that cinema to be knocked down for 20 years,” Tamás said, chuckling. “I guess it wasn’t all bad.”

The development built by Toldi Tamás in the wake of the flood. Photo by Sean Williams

After we left the town hall, Tamás took me to a small kindergarten. Toward the back of the building is a dim room with a sandbox on the floor and yellow-brown blocks of salt lining the wall. It’s a salt room, the type of which is common in high-end spa resorts and is said to relieve respiratory problems. (Many dismiss salt rooms as pseudoscience.)

“We make the kids take lessons in this room at least once a week,” Jennervé Pál Szilvia, the school director, told me. Tamás had insisted the school install the salt room to help kids suffering from clogged lungs, and he persuaded two Austrian businessman who’d visited shortly after the flood to pony up $65,000 (£39,000) to pay for it.

“We’re so fortunate our children weren’t affected more,” said Szilvia. “Of course we were scared. But it’s an unbelievably great achievement, what’s been done here… We were saved by this man.”

Tamás smiled briefly before fixing his face to its default frown setting. “I was just doing my job,” he said quietly before heading slowly to the front door.

Other improvements made as the town was rebuilt according to Tamás’s vision included a bus station heated by geothermal energy and a mulch-powered generator set up behind the town hall that heats the new homes. To run the generator, Tamás ordered a 75-acre poplar field to be planted on the damaged land. The poplars, which can grow up to 2.5 metres a year, are chopped down every other summer and turned into mulch.

Hungarian politics are notoriously corrupt, and many have questioned some of Tamás’s more ambitious projects like the salt room and the mulch-powered generator, but he showed me a series of documents detailing when each project had been completed and how much it had cost – a rare amount of transparency for a mayor.

After the school, he showed me the new development built in the wake of the flood. The 87 white, red-roofed houses are all slightly different, and at the center of the development is a small chapel with a spire girded by two bronze wings – though it looks a bit like a half-submerged trout, it’s supposed to evoke a phoenix-like triumph.

At the bottom of the development are half a dozen homes whose walls are trimmed with ceramics and hanging baskets. They belong to Devecser’s small Roma population, who lived on the town’s lowest ground before the flood hit. As in other Eastern and Central European countries, the Roma have been increasingly persecuted in recent years. In August 2012, about a thousand black-shirted supporters of the far-right Jobbik (“Better Hungary”) Party marched through Devecser to protest against “Gypsy crime”. Tamás, sensing my train of thought as we looked at the Roma houses, said, “They keep to themselves, but they’re nice people.”

There are some things Tamás would have done better if he’d had more time and sleep. Perhaps more homes could have been built. A quicker cleanup could have saved those still suffering from burns. And he struggles to hide his anger at Bakonyi and MAL – the company was fined $650 million (£388 million) and nationalised after the reservoir burst, but though some employees, including Bakonyi, face charges, the mayor claims they’ve all so far escaped jail time. “Why should the judgment take so long?” Tamás said. “No one can understand. I can’t.”

But for someone who woke up to an environmental catastrophe on his first day and has had to rebuild his town from the ground up, it’s fair to say that Tamás has been pretty good for Devecser. Irma is proud of him, anyway, which is all that matters to him.

More on Hungary:

Budapest Is a Paradise 

My Week Spent with Hungary's Far-Right

Hungary Is Destorying Itself from the Inside

VICE News: Hiding in Afghanistan: The Interpreters - Part 1

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The interpreters who worked alongside American and NATO forces in Afghanistan are among our bravest and most loyal allies. They played an essential role in sourcing intelligence and educating Western troops about the local culture. Now they’re being abandoned.

In Part 1 of The Interpreters, VICE News correspondent Ben Anderson speaks with Srosh, an interpreter that he first met in December 2010. They spent five weeks together as US Marines attempted to defeat the insurgency in Sangin – the most violent district of Afghanistan’s most violent province. The Marines that Srosh worked for have since returned home, but he remains in hiding.

Who Are Ya?: China's Football Fans Are Obsessed with Germany's National Team

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Germany is the most popular international football team in China. Beyond the immediate visual evidence – hordes of locals walking around Shanghai in knock-off replica shirts – we know this thanks to a survey conducted at the beginning of this year, and because thousands of Chinese social media users sided with Germany over any other team competing in the World Cup. 

That survey, conducted at Coventry University’s Centre for the International Business of Sport (CIBS), also found that Arsenal are the most popular club team in China. Again, all the fake shirts are a bit of a giveaway, as is this fan art of a stoic, horse-riding Lukas Podolski that's been plastered all over social media, and the fact that Shanghai goes fucking mad for it any time the Arse are on TV.

Last Friday, before heading to the German Centre in Shanghai's Pudong district to watch Joachim Löw's squad play their quarter-final against France, I got some insight into this cross-continent support from Professor Simon Chadwick, director of the CIBS. “Support for Germany and Arsenal is closely linked,” he said. “The common denominator is the three players Ozil, Mertesacker and Podolski. Ozil in particular is important, as there is evidence to suggest that he is something of an icon among certain fans in China.”

He might be an icon, but I still wasn't sure why. How come Chinese fans picked the German midfielder over, say, Guangzhou FC's Zhao Xuri, or Italy's Andrea Pirlo? Is there a solidarity in the fact that both Germany and China are bossing it economically in their own respective regions? Or was it perhaps because China's national football team are consistently terrible, having only qualified for the World Cup once, in 2002? 

“Given the lack of international success by their own team, Chinese fans do look elsewhere for glory and achievement,” said Professor Chadwick. “At another level, many Chinese people often look to Western consumer brands when making consumption choices. Football teams in this respect are just another form of Western consumer brand.”

If Germany is just a brand, 34-year-old Feng Jiong Lin is practically a shareholder, buying into every aspect of the squad he possibly can. When I met him to get the bus to the game it looked like somebody at Germany's merch table had been using his body for a game of Buckaroo.

Putting his flag and enormous drum aside so he could scrape the German flag in facepaint across my cheeks, he explained that he’d been following the team for 24 years.

“I started supporting them during the 1990 World Cup; I was influenced by my father,” he said, before adding his own theory as to why Germany is so popular in his country: “Chinese girls have been thinking that the Germans are very good-looking, especially in the past few years.”

Feng’s wife Song Jie, a 34-year-old business journalist, proudly showed me a then-and-now picture of her family, with the recent shot next to one taken during the 2010 World Cup. “I’m afraid that if Germany loses my husband won’t be able to handle it,” she said, lowering her voice. “But I love being with someone so obsessive about the team. You’ll see his love and passion for them at the screening. When you see it, you’ll begin to love him, too.”

Arriving at the German Centre, we all handed over 150 Yuan (about £15) to this man – a face you can trust.

That fee covered entrance to the screening, snacks and free-flowing beers, to be poured into these specially made tankards while wearing these specially made German lei necklaces. Say what you want about its comedians, bureaucracy and rap music, but Germany sure knows how to put together a night of regimented fun.

This is Yang Houqing, a 29-year-old sales worker who'd travelled 180km from the city of Changzhou to watch the match in Shanghai. “I like the toughness they show,” she said. “Chinese fans say they support their national team, but they’re not doing well, so fans find comfort, happiness and satisfaction with other teams.”

She added that her favourite current player was Bastian Schweinsteiger, whose nickname is "little piggy" in China. “I’ve watched him play since 2005 – we’re the same age,” she said. “It’s like we're growing up together, maturing together – like he’s keeping me company on the way.”

Once we were done discussing the conceptual relationship Yang has had with Bastian for the past nine years, it was time to line up for the national anthem. Feng’s mob draped their arms over each other, proudly clasped the flag and moved their mouths a bit as "Das Lied der Deutschen" blared out of the speakers.

It was pretty bizarre to see this lot caught in a moment of nationalistic tribute to a country they'd never visited.

I didn’t have to wait too long to see what Song Jie meant about her husband's passion for the German side. Mats Hummels’ header put them one up after 12 minutes, triggering a flurry of flag-waving and manic drum whacking, as Feng and the other supporters totally lost their shit.

Despite the whole build-up, I still hadn’t expected to see this level of emotion. I figured that perhaps the Coventry study and social media support were just pointing to a 2014 fad – a country backing a solid, reliable team in the absence of their own national squad. But pretty much everyone I spoke to told me they’d been following Germany for years, sometimes decades, giving misty-eyed accounts of the first time they saw Kahn, Klinsmann, Brehme, Matthäus and the like on TV. Most said they supported Bundesliga teams, too.

This man, Jin Keng – a 35-year-old civil servant – took me aside during the match to show me pictures of the amateur team he plays for. Their team uniform is the full Germany kit – socks and everything.

“Most of us like Bayern Munich,” he said. “I’ve been supporting them and Germany since 1990. Germany fans are very loyal. If they lose tonight I will cry. Yes, actual tears.”

The final 20 minutes were tense, with France coming dangerously close to scoring and, in the process, shitting all over everybody's weekend. But Germany held out and secured their place in the final, prompting cheers of relief from the entire room.

Earlier, Professor Chadwick had told me, “Chinese fans are more discerning in their consumption choices than we might imagine. They chose Germany for particular reasons.”

When I asked the fans what those particular reasons were, I was offered a general mix of "strength", "discipline" and "great tactics". And I found it hard to disagree; Germany might not have the flair or beauty of what South America – and even a couple of European squads – has to offer, but they're dependable, and if you're going to invest a whole bunch of money and time into a country 5,000 miles away, you want to be able to count on the fact that you'll at least make it through to the semis. 

"My job with the drum is creating a great atmosphere where everyone can join us and root for the national team,” said Feng, as the shuttle bus drove away from the German Centre. “I can’t go to Germany in person, so all I can do is be here and use this opportunity to support my favourite team. As a Germany fan who can lead and create excitement, I feel proud.”

Jamie Fullerton is a freelance journalist who has written for The Times, The Sunday Times, The Independent and other publications.

Previously:

Partying in Paris with Algeria's Ecstatic Football Fans

I Tried to Bring About World Peace with Iranian and American Football Fans

FEMEN Protested Against FGM at the Tour de France in London Yesterday

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Yesterday, FEMEN took their topless fight for “total victory over patriarchy” to the Tour de France as it zoomed through London. I was told that the group would be in Westminster at 3PM. Uncertain what bicycles have to do with the oppression of women, I went to check it out.

As it happens, it probably had very little to do with the tour. This was just a public arena guaranteed to be packed with people. But when I got to the statue it wasn’t all that busy. No more busy than say, Oxford Street, or a particularly busy Pret during lunch hour.

But, luckily for FEMEN, seemingly as many photojournalists were there too, waiting for their shot. They hung around looking bored, smoking and occasionally clocking each other.

At 3PM on the dot, three FEMEN protesters appeared in the square from behind us. They were mostly naked. One of them was still scrambling out of her trousers. They immediately start screaming their slogan of the afternoon: “Punished by God. Forgotten by Society”.

Those in earshot turned to watch as the women stood there, fists raised for about a minute.

At this point, I’m still didn’t know what they were they were protesting. Then the chant changed to “Stop FGM” – Female Genital Mutilation – the women turned and walked towards the metal fence, the same slogan painted across their backs. Suddenly their red painted pants made morbid sense.

The women are taken over the fence and towards the centre of the empty cordoned off road. A few more people have turned around now and tourists are watching from the safety of the green. 

The police manhandled the protesters, which is never pleasant, but the distressed struggling of the FEMEN activists seemed to be more theatre for the cameras than genuine anguish. Photographers filled their boots, as did tourists on cameraphones.

Unsurprisingly, everything was exaggerated and sexualised – facial expressions, movements, body positions. Backs were arched, pushing tits to the fore.

“You’re hurting me!” screamed an activist. Maybe she was. But the cops appeared to be treating them calmly and gently – if anything, with a vague air of boredom. The photos turned out like a mix between fantasy sorority pillow fight from a bro movie, only with a frisson of police brutality. But being there IRL, it all felt fairly prosaic.

As the police bundled people into vans, I asked some bystanders what they thought the protest was about. Santiago, 27, from Spain, said, “I have no idea. No fucking idea.” I asked Rhianna Saunders, 15, from Birmingham the same question. She told me, “EDM, I think.” They weren’t calling for an end to stupid American terminology in dance music, but it was better than nothing. Bill and Matt Graeff from Philadelphia didn’t know either, telling me: “We’re from America. We don’t have a clue.”

By half 3, the latest FEMEN protest was over and Tour de France was left to continue. It’s estimated that 24,000 girls under the age of 15 are at risk of female genital mutilation in the UK, so in a way, any effort to raise awareness is worthwhile, but I'm not sure how effective or well thought out yesterday's protest was.

Whether their self-branded “sextremist” tactics are progressive and radical, or self-exploitative and contradictory is one debate. But either way, is it enough anymore? For a while I’ve wondered if both the media and public have become desensitised to FEMEN’s routine. No doubt, attractive bare-chested young women sell papers – it’s a photo story regardless of whether or not there's a story. But with even lad's mags now deciding that there are better ways to shift copies than a pair of tits, I wonder if FEMEN could change their tactics. In a weird way, there are parallels between my thoughts on FEMEN's tactics and my reaction to FGM – the scandal is so endlessly depressing and horrifying that you can become numb to it. All of which is a shame, because FGM desperately needs to be stopped. But I'm not sure FEMEN's protest really made that point any more clear, or just created a media spectacle that even the media are mostly bored of.

@hannahrosewens

More FEMEN:

Watch – FEMEN – Sextremism in Paris

FEMEN: We're Not Run by Men

The Far-Right Tried to Ruin FEMEN's Squat Party

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